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Second failure of new amplifier

Two weeks ago I burned my new amplifier equipped with eight 6L6 tubes. I had been using the amp for one week before that and everything was OK. The failure occurred when I was switching the amp to the standby position and then to the "off" position (two small tubes and two central power tubes flared, so I switched it off and disconnected from the mains immediately). Switched on - no sound. I found out then that the failure was caused by one damaged 6L6 tube and one burnt fuse.

I replaced the fuse and one tube and everything was OK, until I decided to listen to the music today. I listened to it for 15 minutes, then the same problem occurred - when I was switching it to the standby position and then to the "off" position, there was a clapping sound, one 12AU7 tube ignited (flared strongly) and the tubes do not glow after switching on. I will explore this problem further when I come back from work.

When I was purchasing this amplifier (I would prefer not to disclose the manufacturer), my local dealer claimed that the amp had a "stabilized power supply design" or something like that. One of my audiophile friends dissuaded me from bying this amp, saying that 4 output tubes per channel may cause a problem. The dealer said "don't listen to him - he does not know what a "stabilized design" means."

I think I know now what is "stabilized design" - it's burning fuses and tubes every second day. My dealer is reluctant to take it back even for resale (I suggested that he took it for repair and sold it and only after that give me money), but he claims that the guarantee is void because I replaced the stock tubes (12AU7 and 6922) with my own (vintage)tubes and that I should have waited for a couple of months (while it was burning-in) and should have used it with stock tubes without replacing them for other tubes. He added that according to the European ISO standards, changing the tubes would void the warranty.

My questions are:

1. Does tube-rolling in a new amplifier always void the warranty?
2. Is it true that the auto-bias function (especially when the amp is powered with so many (8!) output tubes is unreliable as compared to manual bias adjustment (like my other amp - Cary SLI-80)?
3. Is it normal when a brand new amplifier behaves like this?

I will appreciate all comments, opinions and suggestions.
transl

Showing 1 response by gs5556

gs5556
1,209 posts
 
Is it always the same tube socket? If it is, check the socket under a bright light. Look for burn marks, carbon deposits or mechanical damage in the pin holders and solder points. Use a magnifying glass as even a carbon coating could cause an arc short - and it does seem like there's a short somewhere. Could have been initially caused by a bad tube and replacements may suffer the same fate.

Rolling tubes may have an effect in causing tube failure if the amplifier has a fixed bias setting. Even if the tubes are compatible substitutes, there could be a slight change. But not enought to result in a short IMO.

Curious... why use the standby switch to power down? Is it recommended? Using the standby does not allow the tube B+ voltage and power supply caps to power down gradually. Also, the bias settings may be affected when you roll tubes which may cause the plate current to increase. These may be reasons why the first tube and fuse blew in the first place or just pushed it to premature failure. I'm just going by my experience with guitar amps - power on with standby but power down with just the power switch - but whatever your manual says overrides.
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