Its preferable that it be good. But it doesn't have to be the same, any more than all your interconnects, power cords and speaker cables need to be the same brand.
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NO! I use solid core a LOT on my stuff. Some say stranded only, others could care less, because no one ever looked.. There is a lot of that in commercial speakers.. VERY bad wire securement, (floppin in the wind) small cheap wire. A lot of wire crimps that are just bad, You have to use compression/dimple pliers, solder terminals or solder direct. The cheese ball flat crimper from cheese ball express, NO. The crimper I have used for 45 years have ORANGE and BLACK handles. Simple! Every mechanic/electrician, knows what I'm talking about... The cables to your speaker, well you go as crazy as you want. I don't.. Inside, look before you leap, ay!, Just looking at the BAD things and cleaning them up. That alone might surprise you, with good crimps, wire securements, and binding post...Copper for the bass section, silver for the mids and no clad anywhere. You'll get really surprised.. Now don't tear stuff up. One thing at a time, above all. HAVE FUN... Regards |
I conducted a special review for Dagogo.com in which the Legacy Audio Whisper DSW was upgraded internally with Clarity Cables wiring and Clarity Caps (no relationship between companies). Highly efficacious, and Bill Dudleston measured a 2 dB improvement in the bass. The upgrade of the speaker with the Clarity speaker cables and Clarity Caps is called the Clarity Edition. Just last week I made arrangements regarding revisiting this method of similar, i.e. same brand/line internal and external cables for speakers for future reviews. Sorry, not going to discuss particulars here. Also, my discussion of "internal" wiring of the reviewed PureAudioProject PAP Trio15 Speaker's iterations is pertinent. |
What is the right speaker cable for you? How do you know, what cable the speaker maker put in? Did you opened the speaker and you didn't liked what you have found in it? A speaker cable, should be calculated, by the Amp's DF specs and the cable's required length. As so, the speaker's internal wiring (between the posts and the cross) should be a part of that calculation. I do not know how long is that wire. Mostly the binding posts are soldered directly to the cross PCB back/ so there is no wiring at all. On others, it is very next, and two short jumpers are as good. If that wire is long and thin, a thicker wire is recommended. It is really doesn't matter if that wire is with or without snake oil. Just the length and cross section (AWG) counts. |
If you’re doing a rewiring project, I highly recommend tempo electric’s high purity solid core silver in an oversized Teflon jacket. They sell by the foot at very reasonable prices. No snake oil, just the highest quality, most electrically conductive wire, in the lowest dialectic insulation possible (mostly just air). I already have their speaker cables and just bought enough to fully rewire my Coincident PREs last week. Replacing the binding posts with wago lever nuts as well so that I’m not having to energize big old chunks of metal just to start pushing a driver. The best binding posts are no binding posts. The wagos are low mass pure copper and clamp down really well. Rated for up to 600v @ 20a. They're worth hundreds, but only cost pennies. http://www.tempoelectric.com/cables_DIY.htm https://www.wago.com/us/lp-221 |
