Rowland Model 1 w/ B&W 802N

Does anyone driven a pair of B&W 802N's with a pair of bridged Rowland Model 1's (240 watts/ch bridged) this
sufficient to drive my power hungry B&W 802n's? im downsizing my electonics cash wise and am looking at buying
a pair of Rowland Model 1's. any thoughts? thx
The N802s want to be bi-amped, though doing this actively becomes very expensive. My recommendation is to bypass the Rowland (quality at a price), and drop into Bryston 4B-ST, per Speaker, or using two of their 250wpc powerpacks (you can put these behind the speaker, and keep your speaker wire expenditures to a minimum.
The Bryston is not in the same league as the Rowland, but you don't need to spend that kind of money and amps.
Rowland/B&W will be a magical combination, I had 803's on Rowland 8ti and was amazed at the sense of refinement/smoothness/continuousness and overall musicality. OH MY. It did not seem to have enough punch/slam though. I ended up with Krells and 801's.It's both good, just different. You will achieve good results by biwiring, at a minimum then biamping later as finances allow. A nice system. Bryston is good too,as I have one also, surprisingly for the money. Good luck.
I have a pair of bridged Rowland Model 1's driving Snell Type A/IIIi's. The speakers are 4ohm, so the bridged amps see, effectively, a 2ohm load. While these are the only amps I have listened to with these speakers, I am extremely happy with the sound. I talked with Jeff Rowland before purchasing the amps, regarding whether or not I should bridge them or biamp the speakers. He suggested that bridging them would be the best option, as they were designed from the ground up with bridging in mind.
Ratherman, VERY nice rig. The Snell A III i's LOVE power. I'm so green with envy : ) Have you tried vertically biamping them? You might like that-I know I did.
I have the Snell Aii's that I bi-amp with a Bryston 4B on the low end with a Counterpoint SA-100 on mid/tweeter with Sonic Frontiers SFL-1 pre-amp and a Symetrey low pass crossover. I've been thinking about new elctronics. Any suggestions.
Jaimie Buchanan/Toronto/Canada

I have Snell Type As with a Linn SS amp on the bottom and a Michaelson/Austin Tube amp on top, so the SS/Tube combo really works with these gems. Mattter of fact, I met Peter Snell at an audio show in 1979 and he came right out and said he preferred tubes on top with his Type A's! Key thing is the Snell Electronic X-over made only for the Type A's. It makes a massive difference, in focus, detail, bass, imaging, dynamics - the whole smash, because it's contoured exactly for the Snell Type A's and bypasses the internal X-over completely. The infinite gain adjustment for treble/midrange and bass on this piece really also allows you to adjust for the room, which is important with the Snells. This piece has amazing audiophile parts inside. Mine cost $750. Canadian in 1980 and has never blinked in all these years: not one problem. When one considers that the Snell Type As cost only about 2.5K Canadian in 1980, that gives you an idea of the quality of the X-over. Your electronics are beyond reproach. Sourcing an original Snell X-over would make more difference than 20K in new amps. Try contacting Snell directly. They are very helpful. They might even be able to source one for you.....for all you know, they might even have them in stock as parts, or be able to build one for you, since Snell is still dedicated to servicing everything they've ever produced....One last thought: have you checked the foam surrounds on the woofers? They would certainly need re-coning now if the woofers are original. That alone would make things 'dull out' and make one think new electronics are in order. I had mine done last year, and the difference was astounding....Just carefully pull out the thin black cloth-on-wood strip near the floor and look up at the woofers. If you see rotten, shredded surrounds, then they need repairing. This fix is cheap and restores the bass/midrange balance, snap and clarity...