Ripping Techniques for Digital Audio Players

I just got a wifi squeezebox and a while back, downloaded EAC (Exact Audio Copy). I have been copying my cd's uncompressed, which results in a .wav file. Is this the most preferred way (for best fidelity), or is Apple lossless even better?

Out of the box the SB is impressive when playing uncompressed files. Any tips on how to improve the sound? I see welborne labs has a nice power supply. Any experience here?
Whoops, well I see that this is another contentious area of our beloved passion...what else is new. I did some research today and came across some interesting stuff, thanks to wikipedia and slimdevices wiki.

I hate the inconvenience of not having tagged files when ripping to .wav, and will experiment on the same cd ripped to FLAC (also lossless).
Let us know what result your experience yields. I used Apple Lossless for my files.
Apple Lossless sounds very good IMHO and iTunes offers a high degree of integration - ripping, tagging, images, playlists, SB compatible, iPod support etc.

Besides Wellborne, check Bolder Cable for his Elpac based and Ultimate Power Supplies - Wayne pretty much invented this mod

Don't mean to be a Glooomy Gus BUT.....
The bummer is that no matter whatis best CD-R's can start to have droputs and start to decompose 5 years out.I read here where a fellow 'Gonner had had about 1,000 tpes from Dead shows and other concerts.Well he gave away the tapes and after 3-5 years many of the CD's started to have drop out.Meanwhile he gave up the tapes.I read at that some german chemistas recording fromat be it analogue or digital that metal tape would (if not played to ften and humidt/temperture controlled) out last CD-R's,DV-D R's and such.Even the kid selling Camcorders at Best Buy said for archiavl pruposes he tells foks to get HD digital not HD DV.It's bummer.I know when CD's first came out folks talked about oxidation but it happened to affect very few discs.ut that is where a laser makes pits into a stable interior disc.Whereas when you use CDRW's you are merely increasing the laser temperture.Well wrie once is the same crystaline metal just write once.Tape will last 20 years or more with no problems (they use master tape from 50's right?).Bummed me out when I read this about DCR/DVD-R's here when somebody proffered it wouldn't happen if the Deadhead had used better CD-R's.I thought that smelled like BS if it was happening (and other chimed in iut had happaned to them) the on-lkine article confirmed it.How much loss will happen oiver what period I don't know ywt.But I don't view my CD-R's the way I did and it muns be out.Of c ourse nobody in the industry is adressing this as and issue but if I have and LP or CD (or even download) I would want to know that it was not going to start skipping after a few years.Sorry din't mean to Hijack this or bum andbody out but the more people talk about it maybe eventually they'll adress it.But untill tax records that aren't backed up on tape or other iomprtant documants start to disapear or be unreadable is my guess andmaybe not even then.But people should know this.In any case I'd liek to know best format myself even if doesen't last forever.
to improve the sound, you can:
1) change the power supply for a linear model, not a switching one. I bought mine USD13 in Taipei. Or buy the Bolder PS
2) pay nearly as much as a SB for the Bolder analog & digital mods
3)or use an external DAC
4) if you use the variable volume output, make sure that you don't go below 40 (on the 100 scale) otherwise you lose some information in the digital volume adjustment. If like me you connect your SB directly to a power amplifier with too much gain,you may have to use an attenuator (Endler is very good)
5) buy a transporter instead of a SB. I have both, and the transporter analog out is significantly better (D/A section as good as my old Wadia 25).

Wav files don't bring any advantage vs. apple lossless or flac in term of sound quality.
Regarding the different codec, I decided to re-encode all my CDs to flac (using EAC) to replace my backup in apple lossless. While both deliver theoretically the same quality (both are lossless), the problem with apple lossless is that itunes encoding doesn't have the "secure" feature of EAC. With Itunes, in case you have a read error on your discs, you will not be able to know it and the data file will be copied with error. With EAC+FLAC, you have the benefit of the fact that EAC makes multiple reads of the same track and compare the results to make sure there is no read error. Additionally EAC integrates AccurateRip features: by accessing a database, your rip is compared with rips of all other users who ripped the same CD, to make sure there is no mistakes (works for non too esoteric CDs). For the editing of tagging, I personally use Tag&Rename. Very user friendly.

In case your CDs are in perfect conditions, and if you are not paranoid, I believe that you will be just fine with Apple lossless...
Another advantage of FLAC vs. Apple losless is that internally in your SB all files are converted to FLAC before streaming in wifi. If you want to use fast forward, your files have to be encoded in FLAC, otherwise it doesn't work
considering I despise iTunes, EAC + FLAC is the path for me. Thanks.
No cd-r's for this fella... all my original source CD's are going direct to my seagate/maxtor HDD's.
Awesome story though. About the format longevity thing here is a short story: I have 30+year old 8-tracks my dad used to record family christmas's on, and the original pioneer player, and it still works!! However, with Matlab 2GB RAM, and my sound card I digitized some of them to 44.1 kHz digital audio (overkill). Some of them the little metal splice fell off (adhesive dried up) when it cycled thru to the switch and now priceless analog sits there all messed up, until i can fix it...any ideas?

Power supplys:
That bolder supply is overkill (wicked $), in my book. I went to welborne labs and bought a kit shipped for under 2 bills. It is a MORE than adequate supply for best possible power supply performance of the little squeezebox.

No mods for me (other than the outboard linear ps) the only thing I might do is install a BNC. I intend to use an outboard DAC. I just don't see ripping the original device up and fully pimping it out...if it were me I would save my time and money and go for the transporter, which is based on a vastly superior design to begin with. You can't mod your way out of a design intended for mass market (no offense to the SB3 it is what it is an I love it for that).

Anyway i'm kind of new to the network player thing, but FLAC/EAC seem to be the way to go.

I would love to hear a transporter someday.