Replacing driver screws with brass screws


There was some discussion about this on Millercarbon's thread about the Moab speakers, and I wanted to pursue the subject further without interfering with his thread.
As I stated there, I have heard about this practice for quite a few years, but never tried it because it seemed like one of those lunatic fringe ideas; and even though I actually really enjoy trying tweaks, and have found many of them effective, I just was not prepared for what this one did for the music coming out of my speakers. 
Specifically, it improved the detail in ambient trails, focus in general, complex harmonics in voices and stringed instruments, and instrumental separation. It is not subtle, and it is immediately noticeable.
So, I am curious to know how many of you out there have tried this, and what your experience has been.
Thanks, John  
B187ac10 5526 4e5e 8dc4 e2c49a0f7083roxy54
@ ROXY54 I try all solid brass screws back in 1983 on the woofers, horns, crossovers, on my jbl 4435 studio monitors. Because of there non magnet property i thought it would make a (SQ) change but it did not. I was said about it but it looks real cool. And yes i tried it before i said it will not make a change. In my rig....
In 2002 I started a thread on Audiogon about modifing my Dunlavy SC4s included were replacing all the ferrous fasteners with brass including rebuilding and taking the crossovers outboard. Coating the inside walls with Cascade V Bloc a sealer that dried like concrete..a big improvement.  Tom
Souljasmooth- If you read millercarbon’s Tekton thread, he replied that he was “amazed” at the improvement this little tweak made: “Yes roxy54, and now you see how amazing one seemingly minor little tweak can be” when most people hear nothing or very little if anything.
Also, this is from a person that thinks his moabs are better than the (in MC’s words), top of the line million dollar Wilson speakers, (but Wilson doesn’t make a million dollar speaker, he just used it for exaggerating purposes), so his hearing is questionable at best.
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Ok let’s look at it from the Old mechanics point of view. There are different types of brass. Some brass is slippery. :-)
The material is used as a normal wear part, it is used a LOT, in harsh environments. It has a different dampening effect depending where and how it’s used.
Brass securements with "double binding" washers won’t back out, IF they are torqued correctly...

When things are tight, they do not vibrate. IF thing are NOT tight they will BREAK!!! Ok you can add all the HOOP la you want..

IF IT’S tight, it won’t vibrate, if it’s loose it will...

The speaker rim (for the lack of a better name) needs to be
Secured correctly, with the correct binding head and locks
FLAT, not warped, torqued, in sequence and correctly.
SEALED, it CANNOT leak. AT ALL!
I’ve used Brass, Bronze. Copper, Stainless, Sheetrock screws (high carbon I reckon) internal HEX, Torex, la-te-da.

I use what looks nice, and I can torque to correct specs, easy Dudes and Dudettes!!

If it’s tight, and sealed, it’s dampened, and right...

What does that mean to me. ANSWER. The screws should NOT make a difference, if they are TIGHT.
LOOSE YES, Not torqued correctly, YES. Not torqued in correct sequence, YES.

Easy check, get a stethoscope, scope every screw UNTIL it has the same tone.. Just like tone tuning a spoke, wheel.

I bet YOU can hear better than you think, with a good tube scope, or a heart scope will work (10-20 USD) I use them all the time. STILL

LISTEN. You’ll see, or HEAR. :-)

Regards