I’ve rebuilt a few dq 10’s. I don’t have schematics in front of me, but I recall 8 caps..... C1 in woofer or mid woofer circuit, C2, C3 are in the midrange, C4, C5 & C6 are in the tweeter and C7 & C8 are in the Piezo.
I am going by memory and am most likely off on exact sizes, so take the essence of what I am saying and adjust sizes accordingly.
C1 is large, maybe 80 to 100 mfd, Try to get at least 10 percent of this in a good metalized Polypropylene, So say its 85 mic’s, use 75 mics electrolytic and 10 mic’s of Polyprops.... Basically, the more film the better. The more you go up in frequency, through the tweeter section, the more the caps make a difference. I know the mid has a 16 mfd in there and there are a few 6.5 mfd caps. If you can afford it, I like Janzten Superior Z or Clarity CMR or CSA. If these caps are too high, Look at Janzten Audio cap or Solen PPE.... If these are both too high, go on ebay and find some cheaper caps called Audiophiler caps , they are cheap and still decent.
On the mids and tweeters, try to change all the resistors with metal oxide or metal film resistors, try to get 10 to 12 watt resistors, Look for Mills, Jantzen or Mundorf or again if price is an issue, look for Lynk resistors, if you need lower price, make sure that any wire wound resistors are non inductive....
Lastly, the Piezo. Others will most likely tell you that this is crazy, but I’ve been modifying speakers for 40 years. Take the piezo’s apart. you will see a paper diaphram..... get some latex paint that’s been on the shelf, get and open it carefully, not shaking it up in any way. You will see a milky or clear liquid on top, this is where the latex has separated from the latex, put a thin clear coat on this. It goes a long way to dampening and getting rid of most of the harshness that this tweeter puts out, if possible, coat the rear also. This should all help you end up with a very nice sounding pair of Dalquist, enjoy, Tim