I am still in the conditioner flavors camp. As I use three differnt big conditioners: A Furman REF20i for amp and all video, a PS Audio P600 and a PS Audio PPP. I switch stuffaround to the one it sounds best on. With the P600 set to output 90HZ instead of 60Hz, and the PPP on 'Multiwave" output. Fun.
I have made a homemade four line set from my one outlet, and have multiple taps off those four lines.
I also have some great old metal strip outlets, 25 year old Radio Shack. They will last forever! Too bad they don't make them anymore.
makes some good quality inexpensive power strips, that provide no filtering, conditioning, or surge protection. They can be purchased online from the major industrial electronics distributors (Digikey, Mouser, Newark, etc).
I use one of their models to expand the number of outlets that are provided on the BrickWall Surge Protector/Filter
that I also use.
Naim recommends the Wiremold L10320. No surge protection, no filters, no lights. Allied Electronics used to sell them for around 35 bucks -- just checked and they're now $86!
try the weizhi. find it and try it. its the conditioner for folks who hate conditioners.
Also, for a powerstrip.. make your own.
Go to a Menards like store, the electrical stuf has outlet boxes. One type in particular is great for home made outlets, the boxes are two receptical, or one, metal, smooth finish with afew holes in the sides bottom, with plugs for some holes.
Then there are some small plastic plugs that screw into the holes woth openings for wires with a seal.
So you buy some nice wire, a Wattgate pluge, and a bunch of recepticals from either the better selection at the Menards. or from an audio specialty site, assemble the outlets, and they can be daisy chained so you have say three sets of two receptical outlet packs.
The boxes sit nicely on the floor. use any outlet cover, I use brass ones.
They work well.
The receptical boxes are about $4 each, Recepticals the $3 ones are great, the Wattgate A/C plug is $7 and some good wire.
What do you plug into the PPP vs the PP600?
I recently sold my Audience power conditioner and went with the Wire mold. Sounds better and cost 3000.00 less.
The power cable feeding the power conditioner is absolutely critical and often the weak link of any conditioning system. Many cables just can't keep-up. I've experienced this multiple times.
On the other hand, an excellent power cable on a great conditioner or well-constructed power strip can benefit the entire system.
I use a Furutech e-TP80 with good results.
At the level of involvement you have in your system, adding more dedicated circuits would likely be a relatively minor cost, comparatively, even if you had to change panels. John
For Roscoeiii: the Furman REF20i has all the video, and the amp, a Bryston 4B-SST2
The PS Audio P600 has the digital stuff, A Behringer DEQ24966, Adcom AD700, Sony SCD777ES, Sony SCD555ES Sony SCD333ES and set to 90hz output frequency instead of the usual 60hz.
The PS Audio PPP set to 'Multiwave' has the Tube Buffer, A VAC Standard tube preamp (sort of big for a buffer to ameliorate the digital grunge, but it works well) the Bryston BP-26 preamp, An Audio Research Sp-15 I use just for it's tube phono section on my second TT. The SinglePower MPX3 tube headphone amp a Lil'Dot III headphone amp
(I just tried the Adcom DAC on the Furman, as it did not sound as good running at the 90hz.. So i do try different stuff here andd there..)
I like keeping the load on the two PS Audio low, then they do not get too hot while running. Both PS Audio regenerators run very cool as it is now.
Power House AUDIOPARTS INC, The POWER HOUSE Outlet Strip 6.
Or as suggested make your own using better outlets. However use an IEC so you can use your own high quality PC.
Ahhh, yes. A troubling subject for most of us...what when where and how of power products! As you know from our chat, I use Acoustic Revive RTP Ultimate's. They lay somewhere in between a power strip and conditioner. Basically, it is a solid aluminum box with Oyaide R-1 outlets modified to AR's spec but there is also some filler in the base of the casing that absorbs RFI/EMI and other nasties. The manufacture's description reads like some type of voodoo but it really does add a natural, organic, musical flavor without any real ill effect. It has no moving or mechanical parts. There are some pretty impressive reviews if you do a quick search. I find it hard to listen without them. They are also no limiting and I even am able to plug my massive Krell into one. I never thought that possible. The one downside is I occasionally get some ground issues, some devices don't like to be plugged in to them. I would guess it has something to do with how AR handles the ground inside the case.
I can't deal with the power conditioners that I have heard. They all seem to have a nice wow factor but after some time their tricks become more noticeable and I realize that some bad stuff is happening to my music in order to give me that magic black background and perceived clarity. None for me, thanks!
Elizabeth, my brain burnt through some synapse nerves(!!)....while reading/comprehending your systems hookup!! I use an Audio Magic Oracle.
I would say for me, it all depends.
at one point I had my amps into a PS Audio p1000, and my front end into a P300, all into the same wall circuit. I sold the p300 and found i huge detriment. I bought another p300 and all was well again.
I then found an ESP Reference power strip, decided to swap the stuff from the P300 into the ESP. Due to some power cord lengths, I could not put all the prior P300 stuff into the ESP. I didn't care for the results-----I then decided to use a different outlet for the ESP and had all front end into the ESP----now the ESP sounds better than the P300. I have been too happy with the current set up to tear it down and try the P300 into the same separate circuit--but I guess the moral of my story is, to make sure you can to spread the system to as many separate outlets as possible
Actually I have been experimenting with the PS Audio P600 Sinewave frequency. The A/C regeneration by the P600 can be at any frequency from the standard 60 up to 120.
I had tried 90hz for awhile and it was OK. Then I lowered it to 77hz just to try it. The final sound became a bit 'dull' and uninvolving. Today I raised the sinewave A/C frequency output to 110hz and the system is really great. More 'alive'.
Like playing with it.
When I needed a power strip I used a BPT PPC. Best power conditioner I have had was a Running Springs Haley. Now I use the Alan Maher power enhancer products, mostly the original ones he started selling about 5 years ago.
I am surprised no one has asked what kind of conditioner he was using. What was it and what kind of powercord fed it?
While I found two power conditioners I tried detrimental to the sound of my system, I would strongly recommend that anyone plug into a surge protector, especially if you live in an area with frequent storms. I think anyone on this site has more than enough invested in their equipment to want to protect it. You aren't always going to be home to unplug your gear when the storms come along...
I agree with Richard_stacy. None is probably better, unless you have really terrible power in your area.
My only real concern, and the reason I do use a conditioner, is for the surge protection. I live in the Midwest and we have some real nasty thunder/electrical storms. I have however, gotten braver and now I plug my Krell amp directly into a wall receptacle, which is wired directly to a dedicated 20 amp circuit.
is there a website or email address for audioparts.
I am in the power conditioner use camp. I use prof audio grade Furman power factor correcting conditioners (PF Pro R) that have built in capacitance to aid in current surge demands form the equipment, particularly the power amps. I have one condiitoner for the power amps and one for the low level circuitry. Using both of these has always sounded better that straight from the wall.
I too am also concerned about RF and line surges. My solid state power amps are too expensive to have them damaged by power line crap (an advantage for tubes I guess). It only takes a few micoseconds to destroy most semiconductors.
I did have a Furman line conditioner (AR-12 II) that my CD deck (Cambridge Audio 840) did not like at all. I got noticable distortion in one channel that was removed when I changed conditioners. But this conditioner was a line voltage control device that used a multi-tapped transformer to keep output AC voltage at 120 V.
I have always used an Isotek Gemini or Isotek Multiway power bar with multiple outlets for my equipment. I just purchased one of the last remaining older generation Isotek 8 Multitway's for my system. It has industrial looks, is shielded, non current limiting, and is robustly built. The newer generation of Isotek power bar products do not look as heavy duty as the previous generation. My electronic engineer friend and audio technician in Germany told me that plugging all of the equipment into the same power bar allows for proper phasing/polarity which impacts the quality of the music. In fact, when a component is plugged into a plug and is out of phase, I notice a distinct change in bass and reduced stereo imaging. Now, phasing in Germany is really simple as I plug the Shuko plugs into the equipment without any interconnects plugged into it, then you push a button on a the phase detector and it will light up when the plug is correct phase/polarity. You do the same for all of the components. The power bar/extention is also checked for phase/polarity using one of those polairty checkers; http://www.vandenhul.com/p_IG01.aspx I do not hear many people in the US discussing the merits of correct phasing as we do in Germany.
I sold my Audience conditioner and now go direct and couldnt be happier.
Weizhi PRS-6 that restored the NATURAL tone of my components and the only drawback is no surge protection.
My house is ~10 years old with 2 20 amp dedicated lines and area has good quality electricity but found best plugging everything into the Weizhi.
The biggest issue with power conditioners is one of high source impedance, something you don't want. You want to find one that provides a low source impedance while isolating all the power line garbage. BTW most re-generators tend to current limit, also a bad thing. If you would like more info you can email me.