Reliable Tube Tester for 6H30 Tubes?

Any vintage Hickok or other quality tube tester will do fine, PROVIDED that you can determine what settings to use, because the chart on the tester will of course not include settings for the 6H30 (aka 6N30P, apparently).

Here is what appears to be a credible suggestion about those settings:

http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.audio.tubes/2005-08/msg00375.html

Here is some good information about vintage Hickok's, including, at the end, some points to keep in mind when buying one:

http://www.tubewizard.com/recommended_Hickok_testers.htm

I have an 800A, and I've been very pleased with it.

Regards,
-- Al

I own three Hickoks they are wondeful to look at even a 800A. None currently work. I own a sencore, guess what It doesn't work. I own a BK 747 which does work... sort of..... part of the time. A 4th hickok just plum wore out on me . It worked though for a good number of years. I really liked the working Hickok 800A.
My strong advice is... get a very clear written representatation affidavit that it functions. Also thatn it is callibrated or must be prior to you accepting it. If you have to get the callibration done it may not hold. Don't buy a broken one they have been known to wear out the best techs around.
This is an area of the hobby that is full of crap expressed as "as shown" "You will receive what is in these pictures" "As is" "As Found " "no warranty implied or expressed" Anything with those statements will not work if they say I found this in uncleJed attic and is was working seems tpo be fine. you have a small shot.
A working reliable tester will exclaim that it really works and make a big deal out of it. They charge triple but are worth an infinite amount more than the broken tester. If you want one or 2 "AS IS" I will sell them to you free if you send one back that works reliably and is calibratted.
Not sure if they (will ever) work.
BTW the following are totally do not bother warnings. "No way of testing it (lies always)" and often a picture of a (cut power cord a universal sign for don't touch such ppeople are a menace to society) . "Powers up" don't have a tube to test or don't know how is better than nothing but is very close to nothing.
I am sick of these finicky testers.
What this country needs is an testing module with the usual Octal, Noval, 4 pin, etc. testing sockets to attach to your computer and software to match for tube testing. TM

Mechans, do you mean like this:

http://www.alltubetesters.com/sales.htm

I think it's a foregone conclusion that if you buy a used tube tester, you will have to sink considerable $$ into it to get it working up to snuff. My hickock 533a has been upgraded by Roger (see link), but still likely needs a custom hand wound transformer replacement to acheive accurate voltages on output tubes. I would say it's best to buy a tester that has been thoroughly upgraded by a qualified technician, or this newer computer based model - than to buy a used one that you may have to put 400-1000 dollars into to get it to work properly.

Best, Peter

I own three Hickoks they are wondeful to look at even a 800A. None currently work. I own a sencore, guess what It doesn't work. I own a BK 747 which does work... sort of..... part of the time. A 4th hickok just plum wore out on me . It worked though for a good number of years. I really liked the working Hickok 800A.
My strong advice is... get a very clear written representatation affidavit that it functions. Also thatn it is callibrated or must be prior to you accepting it. If you have to get the callibration done it may not hold. Don't buy a broken one they have been known to wear out the best techs around.
This is an area of the hobby that is full of crap expressed as "as shown" "You will receive what is in these pictures" "As is" "As Found " "no warranty implied or expressed" Anything with those statements will not work if they say I found this in uncleJed attic and is was working seems tpo be fine. you have a small shot.
A working reliable tester will exclaim that it really works and make a big deal out of it. They charge triple but are worth an infinite amount more than the broken tester. If you want one or 2 "AS IS" I will sell them to you free if you send one back that works reliably and is calibratted.
Not sure if they (will ever) work.
BTW the following are totally do not bother warnings. "No way of testing it (lies always)" and often a picture of a (cut power cord a universal sign for don't touch such ppeople are a menace to society) . "Powers up" don't have a tube to test or don't know how is better than nothing but is very close to nothing.
I am sick of these finicky testers.
What this country needs is an testing module with the usual Octal, Noval, 4 pin, etc. testing sockets to attach to your computer and software to match for tube testing. TM

Although my tube tester experience is limited to the excellent Hickok 800A I mentioned above, as someone who has worked extensively with both vintage hifi equipment (1950's and 1960's) and antique radios (1920's through 1940's), I would expect that a considerable number of the non-working testers that are out there would require only routine simple things to be restored to reasonably useable condition.

Namely, testing or substituting for their own internal tubes (my 800A uses two readily available rectifier tubes), spraying contact cleaner into switches and contacts, and perhaps replacing an electrolytic capacitor or two.

Also, a way of finding tube testers in good or at least known condition might be from antique radio collectors. Many of them seem to be getting older and selling their collections and equipment. You might try subscribing to Antique Radio Classified (you can request a free sample copy), and then watching the classifieds in it and/or placing a want ad. And also perhaps following the various antique radio-related forums which are out there on the net.

Regards,
-- Al

I recently picked up a Mercury Model 1000 tester and it works and appears to provide coherent results. However, after checking a bunch of tubes in my collection, I still wonder about its accuracy and sensitivity. Bottom line is that these are test instruments and they need to be calibrated or they are worthless. Mine was manufactured in the early 1960s so I would expect it to require parts and be in need of calibration. My advice would be to search for a good condition, inexpensive unit (found mine on Craigslist) and then send it out to be serviced by a qualified technician.

I've had a few revelations with my uncalibrated tester. Some tubes test rather poorly and still sound good. Also, I have a pair of NOS 12ax7s that test as new according to the tube chart, but they have been in my preamp for about 4 years. This makes me wonder about NOS tubes being advertised as "testing strong", with the implication that they have seen little use. Maybe I'll get different results when I check again with the calibrated tester.

Dear jrb25
I recently acquired a Mercury 1000 tester and I wonder what kind of settings that I can do to test 6H30 tubes?