REL Strata III repair issue

My REL Strata III bit the dust. It started to blow fuses so I sent it to REL in CA for repair. To my surprise, I was informed that one of the amp's boards has suffered trace damage and cannot be repaired. They found a complete replacement amp module and are offering it to me for $500. Seems excessive to me. My question to you guys is whether there might be an alternative replacement amp for this subwoofer, or whether it might be possible to have someone else repair the damaged amp.

Thanks in advance.
Thats a bit of a tough call. To get something even close or similar in a plate version you might be looking at around $500. Then by the looks of them the strata amps there oblong and one I had in mind is square. Im not saying it couldn’t be done but not without some modifications to the box. And I would want them to be done right. If you cant perform mods yourself $$$ to have someone else do them. I can check into another thought and report back. I recall the same company having other options/dimentions/ sig. prepossessing but its a little vague to me at the moment.

Another option would be a rack mountable class D separate like those made by Anthony Gallo. The biggest altercation you would need to do is re route the input from speaker terminals on out to the amp. You might find a used Gallo Reference in and around $500. More often then not they go a little higher. And depending which model higher still.

Another option I like would be using a bridgeable A/B amp thats up to the task and running a good quality DSP ahead of it.

Figure out what you would be willing to spend and start from there.

As I was saying its a bit of a touch call if there isnt a GOOD quality new one that will right bolt up, or even come close. Also factoring in that the REL amp failed in one area once, doesnt mean it will fail again somewhere else but theres the possibility, research those specific amps to gain a little more perspective. Will they warranty on the whole amp after work is performed? How much and how much coverage is relevant question. All things to consider. Repair sounds a little costlier than its worth but it still may be the least expensive and easiest/ convenient option for you.

I forgot to add having someone out of house perform the work and weather its worth it is another good question. How reliable are they and some of those guys arent exactly working for wooden nickels but you may save some along the way.  Then you may need to source the new parts and I would want at least comparable stuff. They might offer you a warranty on good faith and keep it, my guy is usually pretty good that way and he sources his own parts. It can pay off to find a good trusted technician and hang on to them.
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I was right they have a couple that might be more accommodating but to be sure dimensions of the REL’s plate are needed. Including plunge depth inside of the RELs cavity to make sure any potential substitute wont have clearance issues.

These amps with built in programmable processors and usb updates should be up to the task.

Hypex are known for making good quality class D amps for sub and full range applications. $364 and $415 at this parts house, you can check around and maybe do better. Both of those in bridged mode will generate more than enough power to drive the RELs sub.

More things to consider, input signal is balanced. If your preamp does not have a balanced output you would have to get an adapter, and I’m not even sure if thats possible or advisable? Someone that knows about it for certain may chime in to confirm.

Power cord is neutric so if you dont have one you will have to source a pre assembled cord to plug and play or buy a plug separately and mate it to the end of existing wire from the Rel to keep costs down.

You will need a PC or know someone with a PC that can set up the Hypex inboard processor and grab updates.  

All that said it wouldn’t take much getting something like that to fit and well and look professional. By some careful trimming if too big. If too small by adding some mitred hardwood trim to the RELs cavity perimeter. Dado cut to bring nearer to flush with the rels outer surface area. Adding a contour would also be nice further enhancing the look. And of course matching stain. If plunge depth restricts mounting at all you could make adjustments for that too in the process. It almost makes me wish I had a broken Rel Strata to work on.

Ask Bill Legall what to do. Cheers,
I would certainly keep everything original 'REL'.  This is an excellent sub and $500 is not much money to invest into your listening experience.

The newer REL products are junk-sourced to china.  The older models were designed/built in the U.K.