Latest empirical data findings:
1) Carbon brush imparts a negative charge on LPs.
2) Static gun (Discwasher) produces produces + (positive) ions on trigger pull and - (negative) ions on trigger release.
3) In lower than 50% RH Static guns WILL charge the LP surface and can produce localized charge regions on LP playing surface side ESPECIALLY if used only 2-3" from record surface (a.k.a. "can do more harm than good if not used in the proper application").
4) To minimize any localized charging on playing surface (i.e. from static gun usage) in environments below 45% RH sweep record with carbon brush. At worst, it will impart a slight negative charge to the LP.
5) At 50% RH or higher it is VERY difficult for the LP to hold a static charge! This also coincides with best music playback (NOT a coincidence!). This also helps the cartridge to perform as well as to last.
"The best way to experience music is to lose your mind and come to your senses." |
Ive heard that alchohol is a no no for cleaning but I havent found any real data concening the negative effects. My chemist buddie doesnt think there should be any problems with respect to damaging the vinyl. Does any one have any specific findings on this? |
To get dirty/noisy records clean and silent initially, if needed, I give them a good bath using a very low cost but effective procedure that has worked for me for 20 years and my good vinyl still sounds like new. This is a procedure that should only need to be performed once initially per record side if needed.
First I spray them down with a very dilute solution of Shaklee Basic H cleaner in distilled water. I then run my old Discwasher brush around the record while on the turntableto loosen up the dirt. Then I fold a soft and absorbent paper towel to form an absorbent edge to remove the moisture from the record and repeatedly run the edge across the record while turning, re-folding to create a new dry edge as needed, until the record is dry to avoid unwanted dirt deposits accumulating on the stylus. |
Mapman,
you definitely want to rinse that record off again with purified water after what you described.
Rccc,
Alcohol poses no threat to the vinyl as long as none of it spills between the glass and your mouth. ;-)
Seriously, it poses no threat within anything resembling the typical time frame of record cleaning. It is also only a moderately effective cleaner.
For myself, if I've got a seriously dirty find from the local resale store, I rinse under the faucet first with warm water to get the worst off, then follow up with dish washing detergent and a wet sponge, then faucet rinse again, followed by RO water rinse, which I have on my sink for drinking. I then take it over to my Nitty Gritty RCM and do it up with a solution of alcohol and RO water with a trace each of Direct bathroom cleaner and photoflow; or if I want to get serious, I use the multi step Walker Audio Prelude system. If the record isn't so dirty then I skip to one of the last options. If I've already done that at some point, I just use a carbon fiber brush followed by the Mapleshade Ionoclast followed by the Walker Audio Talisman. If this last bit sounds obsessive, it isn't as both are relatively cheap compared their brethren that they best, and they take but a moment to do. I always dry brush the stylus and frequently brush with Last stylus cleaner ending up with a touch of Stylast.
Since my TT is a Maplenoll airbearing linear tracker I preceed all this by turning on my air pump. I frequently quick check the horizontal arm balance since my floor changes a bit with the weather under a few hundred pounds of components. Occasionally I'll clean the arm bearing with a tissue to keep it effortless.
The Hagerman Trumpet has a well engineered two stage manual slow turn on sequence that insures tube health and performance so I do turn that on and off as I use it, optimally giving it at least an hour to warm up. My amp has no such feature but that also gets turned on and off as used. For serious sessions, I'll turn off the power strip with my computer etc. and unplug any unused audio component.
Then comes the hard part: what record to play... |
I use a VPI 16.5 and initial cleaning is with diluted solution from UHF concentrate (available from UHF magazine here) with the VPI supplied brush. This has sufficient detergent that no beading is seen. After vacuuming, a second wash with isopropanol, vacuuming, and then a generous rinse with distilled water and a NittyGritty brush and a third vacuum. GruvGlide is always applied, and the disk played straight away before inserting in a new sleeve. The sleeve is marked to show the record has been cleaned and treated with GruvGlide. I do use a second cork mat for the second side of each disk to avoid putting the clean side on a contaminated mat. Every few days I clean my brushes and the vacuum wand. Intermittently I clean the stylus with Last and a Benz Micro stylus brush. I also use a Zerostat and a Goldring Super Exstatic brush on the glass platter before playing. Once a disk has been cleaned like this, I may use the Goldring brush on it prior to playing if I can see anything on it, otherwise it gets played for a while before being cleaned again. |
Jhendrixfan : Thank you for your support in the cause of steaming records.
Steaming LPs is one of the most cost effective and repeatable playback improvements available to any Lp'er. Used as a part of of combo with a record cleaning machine the results can be fantastic. There is a "dirty little secret" in the record cleaning industry, namely ALL record cleaning fluids leave a sonic fingerprint, goos an glides even worse. However, since so few have ever listened to a steamed cleaned recording they truly have no idea what they are missing.
My personal choice is the Perfect Hand Steamer available thru Walgreens Web Site for $30 US. Great machine ! As for super pure water , try Peak Battery Water @ Pep Boys $4.Ga.
I feel that Pidepipers suggestion to preclean using warm tapwater in certianly acceptable for dirty, grungy $1 bin stuff , provided that steaming comes into play sometime in the mix.
Remember : Jimi played a right-handed guitar up-sidedown and left-handed. He broke most conventional guitar playing rules ... 30 years since his death his music can be heard almost anywhere a radio signal can be received on this planet. Long live Jimi. |
Crem1,
"I feel that Pidepipers suggestion to preclean using warm tapwater in certianly acceptable for dirty, grungy $1 bin stuff , provided that steaming comes into play sometime in the mix."
precicely, or at least a cleaning system worthy of the stereo system and record. |
Crem1, are you talking about a pressure steamer or a garment steamer? |
According to my review of record cleaning articles in print and the internet , the dousing of LPs with water has been recommended in one form or another ; as has the use of a cleaning solution(s) , lite scrubbing , a second imersion of the LPs groves ( not label) and then a drying , by air or cloth. This record cleaning method has been practiced by lots of institutions and folks like us.
What I observed was that even the addition of a Record Cleaning Machine (RCM) did not drastically improve the playback experience. Of course, certian fluids and certian RCM's made some difference , but on high resolution systems backround noises persisted. I became so curious that I began to use high-powered magnification to observe the before and after of record cleaning. Frankly, I was amazed to see first-hand the amount of stuff (mold & grime) that resisted all cleaning.I also came of the opinion that no cleaning method did much to remove grunge locked in the deepest portions of the groves.
In the 1990's I stumbled upon hand held steam cleaners that became the rage on late night info-adds in the US.
The steam cleaner's appeal to me was as a potental record cleaning device. I presumed , if it can clean the grime off the family john , auto or grill why not LPs ? So began a decade and 1/2 long experimentation with hand held steamers .
The Steam Advantage is specifically the "blast" of steam from these hand held units aids in dislodging all sorts of alien crap that interfears with the playback of LPs. Presuming the LP is free of manufacturing defects and signs of owner abuse , the finished product will be relatively cleaner , therefore; more of what has been transfered to the LPs groves shall be available to the listener's ear. I recommend that LPs be pre-cleaned with steam , scrubbed on a RCM of choice w/ cleaners of choice , lightly steamed and run on a RCM then dryed. Why the post steaming ? My experience is that ALL cleaning fluids and tap water leave a "sonic fingerprint" . The second steam aids in reducing or eliminating that print, so it is no longer a problem . Using garmet steamers subjects the LP to a "hoter" steam and the possibility of damage. To date, none of my Lps has been the steaming process I use but be forewarned , practice safety and take your chances.
So there you have it . This process is time-consuming but for the bomb of kilo-bucks spent on analog, cheapo steaming can improve playback lots more than Mo' Money. |
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I notice on this thread that many people eschew cleaning the stylus. With good reason, as the harm some of the cleaning fluids out there can do to the cartridge.
I use a Japanese product called Zerodust to clean my stylus. It is a piece of very soft plastic which you push up against the stylus and remove. Any dirt on the stylus is transferred to the plastic. After a lot of use you can see a build up of dirt on the plastic and you just wash it with hand soap and it is good as new. |
Shiprepair - FWIW, I made up some of the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser "lollipops" that Dougdeacon had described. Use the ME followed by carbon fiber brush (Discwasher, I think) before and after each side. I don't use any liquids. A magnifying lens confirms this dry process removes dust as well as discoloring residue that builds up on stylus.
Probably worth noting there's less risk of harming the cantilever with the device you use.
Also want to voice support for steam cleaning LPs as Creml has been advocating. |
I, too, use a VPI 16.5. I also use an Onzow Endust to get any detritus off the stylus. I use the stylus cleaner once daily, but more often if needed. That, and a record clamp, and I'm good to go. |
Hey y'all, I use a totally diy system of cleaning made up from following some of the ideas from a lot of different sites in the analogue community. You know, ice cream maker, old platen, ball bearing lazy susan, homebrew, vacuum, etc etc... When I am going to listen to an album I give it a good few turns with the carbon fibre brush and then clean my stylus with the brush provided from the cartridge company. Upon finishing the side I will again pass the old c.f. brush in the event I dislodged any gunk and give her a flip to the other side following the same procedure. I give my stylus a good cleaning now and then with the same brew that I use on my records along with a gentle scrubbing with a fine paintbrush which I shortened to about 1/4 inch, always from back to front and then I will give it a good blow again from back to front to keep the fluid from being forced up the shaft of the stylus. I should have mentioned that I take the cartridge off the arm and never clean the stylus with the cartridge upside down as this might allow some of the cleaning fluid to get into the bowels of the cartridge. Yes, my cleaning fluid contains alcohol but I don't worry about the bond between my stylus and the shaft. I've been doing it for at least one and a half years with no ill affects. I also regularly check my stylus under a quite powerful microscope to verify condition and cleanliness. My kids sometimes shake their heads but never complain when the tunes are on and we are all bopping our heads to the music |
With records I just obtained, I first clean them with my Loricraft, and later on I dust them off before and after playing.
I also them to ensure they smell like vinyl,
Thats it
VINYL Meister |
When one takes the time to master steam cleaning , nothing does more to improve playability. Steam, any record cleaning fluid from home-brew to $$$, combo'ed with a vaccum cleaning machine, makes for a hard to beat combination. |
1. Carbon fiber brush 3-4 rotations with a slightly moist finger to compensate for drag on every listen, every side. I like to think I've mastered this technique so as not to put unnecessary strain on the belt.
2. Zerodust after a session when digging out my old vinyl; with new vinyl only once a week...
3. I'll blast it with compressed air at times before putting it back into my Diskeeper "Ultimate Audiophile Inner Sleeves." I only do this for my prize LPs (or when dust appears on the transfer back into the sleeve).
Four years ago I used the old Disc Washer D4 solution from back in my youth, thinking this was the proper way to "Care" for the vinyl. Only to realize I did more harm than good. I never use a brush on my needle. Ever.
When I'm hammered, all bets are off (I try NOT to listen to my records when really intoxicated). |
This is why I don't have vinyl anymore!!!!!!!!!!! |
I usually end up cleaning my records (typically just by dusting them off) before I play them. I do a more thorough clean as I see fit. I still love listening to records. |
I dry-brush clean my record each time I play it. I also dry-brush the stylus with each side. When I worked in high-end audio, my record guru steered me away from any liquid on the stylus.
Ritual: Clamp record to platter; tap with fingernail to check for bubbles, if bubbles, loosen clamp and turn record; spin record and dry clean; dry clean stylus; place stylus on record and enjoy!
Do not use your fingertips to tap the record! Your fingertips naturally have oil on them. The backs of your fingernails do not.
I clean my records on a VPI 16.5 periodically. I haven't decided what is the best fluid yet -- I am researching it...
Cheers! |
run a brush along the record for a few rotations before playing.
open a bottle of wine.
run a brush along the record fora few rotations after playing.
repeat. |
Dear Fightingwords,
Great ritual! I forgot to write in to my protocol the part about pouring the glass of wine or pint of beer. At this point it is implicit in my record playing ritual.
Funny how the sound improves with each glass! |
I open a can of solid white Bumble Bee packed in water and sprinkle a little bit on my tonearm. Why? I want the best tone-a quality. {;>) |
are you implying that you can tuna tonearm? |
absolutely. I do if for the halibut. But before I make a bass out of myself, tunality between brands affects the scales of performance. Some people may flounder when first trying this, but they will shout 'holy mackeral' when hearing the sharking improvement. Well, I better clam up cause this cod go on. |
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I dry-brush my records before every play and clean the stylus as well. Oh, and let's not forget the clamp, a really important part of my analog set up.
I also use the VPI 16.5 on records after three or four uses, depending on how much dust/dirt they collect.
On a weekly basis, I'll clean the platter and use Last stylus cleaner on the cartridge. |
I'm slowly getting back into vinyl after 20 years. I can't remember, if I ever knew, how to properly use a "Zerostat." Can anyone please remind me the correct procedure? |
To all you vinyl purists out there-tell me what I'm doing wrong. First I must tell you, 25 years ago, I would buy an album-off the "rack", then I would record it to a good quality cassette. I did this with the idea I could play the cassette as loud as I wanted to, no acoustical feedback and my album would stay new-forever. I now realize I was compressing the sound, but then-ignorance was bliss. I have recently started easing back into vinyl. My son just bought me a half speed master of Dark Side Of The Moon. I ran a dry parastat s l o w l y over the album before playing. I also have a grounded mat in place of the original turntable mat. I also use a Zerostat the last thing before playing the album. I have noticed after a couple of weeks, I hear more pops than when it was new. Ok-I can feel you cringing, because I am obviously doing something wrong and killing my new album. I have read threads about vacuuming the album and wonder if this is where I'm missing the boat. I have vinyl record sleeves, so paper isn't an issue. I saw a record washer reviewed - "Spin Clean Record Washer" and the reviewer said this, along with products from AIVS would do the trick. This is a washer only and since you know, most of my albums were only played once-until recently-dirty albums shouldn't be an issue. So how do I leave the pops behind? Also, I have noticed the pops aren't consistent across the board. Some albums (Thompson Twins-Across The Gap) sound great. Others-many pops etc. I don't have the resources, or at least I should say I'm not yet committed, to pouring big bucks into vinyl. I have a modest collection from 20-30 years ago (I found a Graham Nash "Songs For Beginners" and Cat Stevens "Teaser And The Fire cat" that are still sealed!) They are "Plain o" albums, but it's still cool to make that find. I regress. So after hearing, or reading my procedure, what am I doing wrong? |
This was asked - and answered. To much '60's. |
When I place the record on the turntable, I run the carbon fiber brush on it before setting down the stylus. Nothing real anal. I clean the records once a year usually. |
Using a grounded brush works like a charm. Heres a link http://store.acousticsounds.com/d/42882/AcousTech-The_Big_Record_Brush-Record_Cleanerdont
I dont think you need to clean your vinyl again if you keep your fingers off the playing surface. Keep the lp in a good sleeve and brush before and after play. |
Why of course. I take fine sandpaper and rub it on the record in a circular motion quite vigorously in the direction opposite the playing motion. This removes all the dust. I then appply copious amounts of Dawn concentrated dish detergent and let it dry slightly to set into the what is left of the grooves. then rub it to a foam with ordinary tap water. rinse and rub try wth a terry cloth or nited up woolen sweater. I then apply a good clump of dust bunny to my platinum pure sapjire body custom made Koetsu with palladium coils. The stylus is osmium coated quartz.This treatment will take all the shrill sounds out of it. Very mellow indeed.
Then sit back and enjor |
"open up the tray of my CD player which sits next to my turntable. I place the glass of wine on the open Cd tray "
LOL |
Question about steam cleaning: How do you use steam and not damage the labels? I'm interested in this zero solution method, but concerned about the labels. |
Ok,after 20+ years of no vinyl, I'm back in the game!! After an initial run thru the RCM to clean my LPs after years of accumulated grime, I just dry brush before each playing. I clean the stylus before each session. I still don't care for the rituals but, I love the results. |
Here's my RC procedure (Just received the OKKI NOKKI). I had hoped that I would do everything on the RCM, but I haven't. Here's my typical cleaning procedure:
1) Lay out some clean Micro-fibre towels for the record to lie on.
2) Scrub the record sides using two disk doctor brushes. 1 used for the Audio Intelligent Enzymatic Cleaner, wipe off with cloth then use other brush for the Audio Intelligent Super Cleaner step (alcohol based), wipe and flip the record to repeat the same steps. When done, I wipe off excess cleaner with micro cloth.
3) Use the Spin Clean manual rcm filled with store bought distilled water for the rinse.
4) Remove the record and wipe once on each side to remove excess water and not induce static charge.
5) Now I put the disk on the Okki Nokki. I use Audio Intelligent Purified Water ( a bead across the grooves) then use the supplied brush to spread the water out evenly and work into the groooves with the soft bush. I then vacuum the side, two revolutions only, flip the record and repeat.
6) I then let the clean records air dry for at least 1/2 hour and then replace in a new Mofi rice paper record sleeve.
The results have been great....YMMV |
I should mention the above procedure is only done for new and used records that arrive. It is not my procedure everytime I play a record. |
I don't think anyone posted this in the thread, but I clean my stylus with a Mr. Clean magic eraser that I keep in a zip lock bag in the cabinet under my stereo. |
New records only. Place on VPI 17 rcm. Tighten center screw.
Spray record with Premier by Microcare. Gently rub with dedicated soft brush as Premier evaporates.
Pour MoFi Plus Enzyme cleaner on record. Spread and gently rub back and forth with dedicated brush.
Let sit for 3 to 5 minutes.
Vacuum w VPI.
Apply reagent grade water through wand on VPI. Rub back and forth with dedicated brush. Vacuum.
Repeat last rinse and vacuum step.
Works great. MoFi or Disc DR brushes work well for MoFi and water. Nitty Gritty brush for Premier. Always rub with grooves not against.
Learned of this routine from one of the most respected guys on this forum. It works very well.
Only one cleaning required if use Furutech Destat and compressed air to remove dust after each play. Keep stylus clean with Zerodust or MoFi #9 stylus cleaner. I know someone who swears by Magic Eraser for stylus cleaning. |
I use a StaticMaster brush for dust and static on both my stylus and for my large format film negatives. The StaticMaster comes with a cartridge that's replaceable, don't touch the cartridge! |
Run in a circle 5 times, breathing as much as possible through your nose, kind of like snorting. You must be in the center of the listening room. Then go to the bathroom and pee, at least a little. Wash your hands very thoroughly and cue up the record. Sit down and relax, but be wary of foriegn scents. |
That's ridiculous, Mechans. You have to be in the sweet spot of the speakers, not the middle of the room. Try it - upon exiting the bathroom, you'll immediately experience a blacker background, and extended, sweeter highs.
What I do is dry-brush before play, (Acoustech Big Brush), and clean the stylus. Unless someone is looking. Then I merely dry brush the record so as not to look too fussy or compulsive.
New or used records get a few spins in the Spin Clean. Repeat every five or ten years. |
Beer...friends...volume....repeat. |
IMO, there are only three types of records to clean:
1. Used, prior to the first play
2. New, if they come from the pressing plant with hints of distortion (rare)
3. 30 or more plays
I use a Spin Clean because they're inexpensive and work well. The only issue I encountered was static build up. Of course you can purchase a Zero Stat, but what fun is that? So I built a contraption while unemployed a couple of years ago out of scraps in a NYC apartment. It kept my mind moving and entertained for a week. It's become a conversation piece, every time someone comes over, I get the, "what the hell is that thing". Think of the original Willie Wonka... |
VIP 16.5 on new or used w distilled h2o, their cleaning detergent/wetting agent aliquot and 20% isopropyl. Then each time, the static gun from maple shade and a discwasher, then static gun and hunt eda brusg. Anti static gun gets pulled and released at least 2 x per lp revolution while either brush engaged. Then old audio technica sonic stylus brush slowly from back to front (my hands not steady since childhood so this is a long slow sweep, afraid to linger as I might damage cantilever). Then drop lever and run to chair. |
oops - Audioquest electronic stylus cleaner, not audio technica |
Have you seen what liquid stylus cleaners can do to your rig? |
