Get a voltage converter!
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The obvious answer would be to go Class D as most of those are switchable but to change the answer to your question slightly have you given thought to the economics? Using the U.K. as a for instance if you buy an amp in the US less than six months before you move you will have to pay VAT on arrival in the U.K. (20%). Of course anything you buy in Europe will have VAT on it as well.
As it’s a trivial job to switch any given amp from 110 to 240 or vice versa have you thought of ordering your preferred tube amp in the US, speccing it 240V and having it delivered suitably in advance of your trip? If you prefer US models they will be much cheaper bought here.
As I’m actually relocating back to the U.K. now after 24 years in the US I’m working through all of this now having all of the active components in my system switched. It’s a pain to have to send them back to the manufacturers but on the whole not expensive for the work of changing, and also good to have them all looked over. For the EU sourced pieces I’ll wait till we are in Europe to do the work.
For around $5500us new, you’ll get the new John Curl designed Parasound Halo JC5, will drive anything.
The three red switches in the internal shot give you voltage selection.
No noisey SMP power supply, a proper linear power supply, and no class-d, it’s high bias, high current Class-A/B.
Click on a photo then used the L&R arrows to see all views https://www.parasound.com/jc5.php
voltage converter for an amp ???
Dude....I am not sure they make one that could handle a decent power amp.... they are rated for small electronics...anything for a 100wpc tube amp or class A amp would probably be the size of the amp itself and run hotter than a stove.
Folkfreak1; I am not sure of your situation but I am 100% sure I will NOT be paying any VAT for bringing my personal belongings...even if it includes expensive audio system....
The plan is very economical from my point of view.... I buy a good amp now - enjoy it till the move, then have pros come in, pack it all and send to the new place - I unpack it and continue enjoying my system as if nothing has changed..... (well...will just need to pick up new EU type power cords) ....2 yrs later - same thing going back to the US.
As for the after market change in voltage at some local shop - I actually heard it’s not that easy...at least not for high end audio..... not recommended as per the feedback I received when posting that question.
Halo JC5 is an option - I have JC2 BP pre-amp and Halo CD-1 - both I picked up in the recent months for the very reason that they come with the switchable voltage selector.
Still trying to sell my Cary CDP-1 which I enjoyed but it can’t switch t he voltage that easy and getting ready to sell my ARC Reference 110 amp for the same reason
ether OPYes you can, it’s the same as my Cary 303/200 is, just fuse location change, I circled in red for you. https://ibb.co/XFDnPPZ
From the CDP-1’s manual
"Power Input Power Consumption Configured at the factory for either 110-117 or 220-234 V AC, 50-60 Hz 50 Watts"
ether OPAnd you can’t go wrong with the new JC5 Halo.
yogiboy - I stand corrected....apparently there are some V-converters that are relatively manageable in size and price and are rated up to 5000W - which in theory should be enough to run an amp.... However, I am reading mixed reviews on them....and even the manufacturers recommend to buy units which are 3 to 4 times the maximum expected power need....so my older Ref 110 was pulling 800W.... so I should be looking for something in the 3000W .
Not sure how clean power those deliver and they are reported to run very hot when running for more than 30 min..... I would need to be sure I can run it for hours.....
George - thanks for the tip on Cary CDP..... I assumed that if it says "Power consumption configured at the factory...." that basically means I can’t change that myself but it would require some configuration changes to the actual parts.....not as easy as just a fuse (I would not hesitate to do change that myself, but I would refuse to do any soldering.... I have done it for "cheap" parts or equipment, but I won't do it in a $5000 amp)
AS for JC5 - I will have to check with Parasound ....unlike the preamp and CDP from them....the JC5 doesn’t have the switch on the back to change from 110V to 220V
Good advice all around - t hank you ALL !
but I would refuse to do any soldering....This looks to be the exact same power input board as my Cary 300/200 was, and all it took was to move the two fuses to the other positions below them, NO SOLDERING, just pull them out and push them back in again. The voltages are marked on the fuse board.
As I bought 3 or 4 of them from the US110-115v to Australia 220-240v and did the conversion for my customers. https://ibb.co/XFDnPPZ