Recommend a good tube power amp in the 100 wpc range for under $4k


 I am looking to bi-amp my Fyne F702 speakers, with a solid state amp for the low end and a tube amp for the mods and highs.  The Fynes are floor standing 2.5 way units with 93 db sensitivity and 100 wpc rms power handling capacity.  My preamp is a Rogue Audio RP-7, and my current solid state power amp is a Benchmark AHB2 at 100 wpc.  My goal is not so much more power but to put a tube amp on the middle and highs.  The Fynes have two sets of binding posts, one for lower frequencies and one for mids and highs.  I am looking to go active bi-amping with a Sublime Acoustic K231 Stereo 3-Way Active Crossover.

  In addition to an amplifier recommendation, what else do I need to consider?  For example, if I buy an amplifier with wattage output similar to the AHB2, what other factors do I need to consider?  Because I do NOT want to modify the speakers in any way, do I need to consider a gain control to match level differences resulting from other factors, such as impedance differences? Or, can I just hook up the crossover between the preamp and the two power amps and enjoy the music, which is what it is really all about anyhow?


Many thanks for any and all comments.


I suggest a Older Rogue 120 Monoblock pair.

They will have the lowend that may very well make you forget about biamping and the issues on levels ect, been there done that in the end keep it simple with an excellent amplifier pair.

Lowend control and slam with the transparency of tubes, 

+1 to those that recommended Music Reference. I was going to suggest a Music Reference RM-9 as well. It will run EL34’s or KT88’s, I believe 6550’s too?

Another golden oldie from the 80’s to consider that also gives long tube life is a Berning EA-2100 or 2101 if you can find one.


The other thing to consider is how loud you listen to music. You will find that a 40 wpc EL34 amp can often sound as loud as a 100 wpc SS amp….a pair of Dyna MKIII’s will sound amazing too.

Lots of good choices here if you include Quicksilver, VTL, cj and ARC, but if it were me, I’d be looking for the 2 amps I recommended above.

@pdreher what is the difference between a RM-9 and the RM-9 mkII?


I had an RM 9 many years ago with a RM5 mkII (upgraded from a silver RM5).


Great stuff!  RIP Roger M.

@lou_setriodes per Stereophile, the differences between the original RM-9 and the RM-9 MK II:

Let’s take a closer look at the Mk.II. The output power has been nudged from 100 to 125Wpc—[an increase of 1dBW—Ed.]—the new wood frame is more visually pleasing, and the On/Off switch is now rocker-style. The five-way binding posts are new—they’re made of solid copper, have ¼" studs, and are altogether more pleasing to my sensibilities. The output-tube fuses are now top-mounted together with "Fuse-Out" indicators—a major convenience—and the input/driver tubes are 6922s, tested by RAM Labs.

But the most significant upgrades—those in the power supply—are invisible. Capacitor energy storage, for instance, has been increased by 50%. Most significant, according to Roger, are the dual chokes that have been added to the power supply beyond the existing filter network—a filter dedicated to each channel. These chokes not only improve the filtering action, but also serve to improve right/left channel separation. Best of all, the RM-9’s retail price is almost the same as it was in 1989: $2950 in oak with an EL34C output-tube complement. Additional finishes and output-tube complements (eg, KT88s) are available as options.