I do agree, "good is the enemy of the best"... but I'll take a different tact.
I don't think it's the outlet adding to the problem. it maybe is helping to show it though.
I've four dedicated lines. Worried about outlets a goodly bit. Leaned on my experience as an electrician and decided this... use those outlets which will provide insertion of a device without arcing, and have the greatest surface area and grip. I went with simple hospital grade 20a duplex outlets.
given the level of gear you posted here, I'd think well about replacing the Monster regulator as they tend to induce more of a hardend upper end. Perhaps thinking about a passive line filter coming off the Monster, or in place of it would provide better results. I use only the aforementioned hosp grade 20a outlets and PS Audio line filters. Two Duets for the gear, and a UPC 200 for all the wall warts and PC gear. I could not be happier... and maybe ignorance is bliss. Don't know, but that path does work quite well.
If it were otherwise, and ONLY attention needs be given to the outlet itself, Why then are the proponents of these higher priced gizmos using apparatus after the outlet to further condition system conponents?
Spend money where it needs be spent, I say. tight gripping well made, durable outlets, and condition thereafter using the money you didn't spend on outlets.
As I mentioned previously, the issue maybe elsewhere... dedicated lines aren't the end all be all for supplying components good power. if the dedicated lines were installed using the same bus as that supplying household appliances, fans, hot water heaters, fridges, etc, or lighting with poorly designed dampers, you've not helped yourself a lot. Some good bit, but not terribly.
The thing about dedicated lines is this, ultimatedly they share whatever issues are pre-exsisting in the homes power feed. The same neutral/return, and the same supply bus. Dedicated is segregated or separated entirely, just lessend of the direct impact or influence of other problems. A separately installed iso transformer is needed to better remove any issues from that of the feed to those D lines.
Quick note... you said you were using a secondary isolated ground. Although a good idea usually, Depending upon the application/implementation of the iso ground, some difference of poetential can exist... causing a ground loop. An easy fix for that is an inductor. Simply looping some 10 or 12 AWG solid wire wound round and roung and then taped up and shoved into the wall, can eliminate that issue sufficiently to make it unoticeable.
Remenber unless the D lines use a t-former, somwhere along the line, somewhere in the home, both the neutral and the other ground come back into the ckt.... just the effect is lessend or takes longer to be realized.
When I installed my hosp outlets I did not add the ground/common line of the D ckts to every outlet. Just one. Violin! No hum, buzz, sibalence, top end harshness. Dead quiet, and I use tube preamp and mono blocks.
I found that elsewhere in my home, other things were either contributing to, or directly affecting that top end, or upper midrange on up... ground loops, primarily, but appliances too. I put chaeater plugs on the washing mach. diswasher, and fridge. Five minutes and 2 bucks later thijngs were better.
Also, Computers and their accesories leak DC back onto the power line. Hence the UPC 200 AND SOME EXTENSION CORDS. Even my cable system and/or sattelite added to the mix negatively. I used a coax transformer from Dayton on the cable feed directly attached to the converter box, which in turn is connected to my system.
before spending tons on a new set of whozits high end outlets, or making major moves in the system... Fire up the system and listen a bit, then turn off the rest of the breakers in the home not associated with the system, and listen. how's the sound? then one by one flip on a breaker, listen again.. this can be done pretty rapidly, with just a few minutes between each energizing... and just keep listening. Another body to just flip the breakers on whill facilitate things. I think you'll find the issue that way... if nothing changes as the result of that exercise, Try just unplugging the coax going to the cable/sat box, or ant to the TV.
Taking a few minutes to do the above is quite telling and my most sincere recommendation. Addressing a problem is best done if you know first hand where or what the problem is at the on set. therre's no guess work then.
THEN go add well built outlets and conditoning thereafter IF desired or even necessary, and I do feel they are.
Before I spent hundreds of dollars on something that I don't know about, I'd spend a few minutes determining what I do know.
Good luck.
I don't think it's the outlet adding to the problem. it maybe is helping to show it though.
I've four dedicated lines. Worried about outlets a goodly bit. Leaned on my experience as an electrician and decided this... use those outlets which will provide insertion of a device without arcing, and have the greatest surface area and grip. I went with simple hospital grade 20a duplex outlets.
given the level of gear you posted here, I'd think well about replacing the Monster regulator as they tend to induce more of a hardend upper end. Perhaps thinking about a passive line filter coming off the Monster, or in place of it would provide better results. I use only the aforementioned hosp grade 20a outlets and PS Audio line filters. Two Duets for the gear, and a UPC 200 for all the wall warts and PC gear. I could not be happier... and maybe ignorance is bliss. Don't know, but that path does work quite well.
If it were otherwise, and ONLY attention needs be given to the outlet itself, Why then are the proponents of these higher priced gizmos using apparatus after the outlet to further condition system conponents?
Spend money where it needs be spent, I say. tight gripping well made, durable outlets, and condition thereafter using the money you didn't spend on outlets.
As I mentioned previously, the issue maybe elsewhere... dedicated lines aren't the end all be all for supplying components good power. if the dedicated lines were installed using the same bus as that supplying household appliances, fans, hot water heaters, fridges, etc, or lighting with poorly designed dampers, you've not helped yourself a lot. Some good bit, but not terribly.
The thing about dedicated lines is this, ultimatedly they share whatever issues are pre-exsisting in the homes power feed. The same neutral/return, and the same supply bus. Dedicated is segregated or separated entirely, just lessend of the direct impact or influence of other problems. A separately installed iso transformer is needed to better remove any issues from that of the feed to those D lines.
Quick note... you said you were using a secondary isolated ground. Although a good idea usually, Depending upon the application/implementation of the iso ground, some difference of poetential can exist... causing a ground loop. An easy fix for that is an inductor. Simply looping some 10 or 12 AWG solid wire wound round and roung and then taped up and shoved into the wall, can eliminate that issue sufficiently to make it unoticeable.
Remenber unless the D lines use a t-former, somwhere along the line, somewhere in the home, both the neutral and the other ground come back into the ckt.... just the effect is lessend or takes longer to be realized.
When I installed my hosp outlets I did not add the ground/common line of the D ckts to every outlet. Just one. Violin! No hum, buzz, sibalence, top end harshness. Dead quiet, and I use tube preamp and mono blocks.
I found that elsewhere in my home, other things were either contributing to, or directly affecting that top end, or upper midrange on up... ground loops, primarily, but appliances too. I put chaeater plugs on the washing mach. diswasher, and fridge. Five minutes and 2 bucks later thijngs were better.
Also, Computers and their accesories leak DC back onto the power line. Hence the UPC 200 AND SOME EXTENSION CORDS. Even my cable system and/or sattelite added to the mix negatively. I used a coax transformer from Dayton on the cable feed directly attached to the converter box, which in turn is connected to my system.
before spending tons on a new set of whozits high end outlets, or making major moves in the system... Fire up the system and listen a bit, then turn off the rest of the breakers in the home not associated with the system, and listen. how's the sound? then one by one flip on a breaker, listen again.. this can be done pretty rapidly, with just a few minutes between each energizing... and just keep listening. Another body to just flip the breakers on whill facilitate things. I think you'll find the issue that way... if nothing changes as the result of that exercise, Try just unplugging the coax going to the cable/sat box, or ant to the TV.
Taking a few minutes to do the above is quite telling and my most sincere recommendation. Addressing a problem is best done if you know first hand where or what the problem is at the on set. therre's no guess work then.
THEN go add well built outlets and conditoning thereafter IF desired or even necessary, and I do feel they are.
Before I spent hundreds of dollars on something that I don't know about, I'd spend a few minutes determining what I do know.
Good luck.