Rebuilding Power Amplifier(s)


I have a couple of Metaxas Solitaire power amplifiers.
One amp is operating on both channels and the other has only one channel working.
They have been inspected by a repairer , who has refused to conduct any repairs as repair work has previously been conducted to a poor quality.
So I have now retrieved them and propose to refurbish myself.
- Its either that or just dispose of them.
My plan is to replace every discrete component  to original spec or better .
Now I have no experience of such work , but I can't see any great skill needed for such work.
Have I under estimated , not the quantity of work as I have plenty of time , but the complexity for a novice.
I'm interested in comments.
bobby1945
I urge caution. I tried recapping an old Adcom amp, the right channel in my custom built Tannoys got fried. I hope this doesn't happen to you.

Regards,
Dan
Without a schematic and test equipment you will have quite the challenge. Just like repairing a car, success depends on identifying the problem -- not throwing parts at it. In both cases you need diagnostic equipment to identify the problem and the skill set to know what to look for and interpret the results. 

You may succeed, don't get me wrong, but you have to identify everything you replace and make sure direct substitution is given priority over "better quality".  To avoid complicating things for you, practice desoldering on old pcb's until you get the pads clean as a whistle without damage. 

Work slow, work deliberately. Plan ahead what should be removed first and take plenty of pictures of the board for assembly reference before you remove anything. Check and double check everything before you put the leads through the holes and check and triple check all diode and transistor orientations before soldering.
Those amps were rather expensive new! I would just replace the faulty parts in the damaged one - using the working circuit in the good one as a reference! No need to strip everything down to the bare circuit boards! Just the faulty parts!
Depending upon the parts you should consider replacing the parts in both amps.

Pay close attention to the last paragraph of gs's post! In fact the whole post offers some really good advice.
Yes some excellent pointers ,I will heed during this rebuild .
Thanks guys 
The best pointers I can give is to measure the components on the board
and know the measurements of the new upgrade components .
And don't change any values . .
The don't change any values is critical for keeping original sound, example, if original caps are 85 degrees do not substitute with 105 degrees whatever a technician may say, new caps are much better today. Compare the original factory specs of parts to be changed to new ones, you can create an excel of what to substitute and compare the specs, this will give you a better understanding. Service manual is a must. Each step at a time and rather work at night.

G

Now I have no experience of such work , but I can't see any great skill needed for such work.
All I can say is GOOD LUCK!!!

https://liquidaudio.com.au/hall-of-shame/
This is my Metaxas amplifier !  And I have been advised my 2nd one is as bad , if not worse!
My skill set is not adequate to undertake this work .
I have accepted that unfortunately  its a bin job.
 
@biobby1945 where are you located?
bigkidz2   I am in Thailand , but the amps are in Oz-Perth WA
I just did this for the first time on a Sansui 5050.  It sounds great.  Here is what I learned.  Watch a few videos on how to solder/desolder electronics.  Watch a video on how to “tin” a soldering iron.  You can get service manuals at hifiengine.com.  Replacing capacitors is no big deal as long as you use the same uf rating.  The voltage can be a little higher.  Transistors you need to be careful.  Find a direct replacement and make sure you know what prong goes where.  (ECB, BCE, etc).  Resistors are easy but the coloring on the outside that tells you the resistance might have faded making it hard to know the resistance.  These shouldn’t go bad and I’d leave alone.  (Unless the service manual identifies the resistance).  After each circuit board I would test with a “dim bulb” tester. (Easy to build).  This will tell you if there is a short and you will know what board it is on.