I've built two music rooms using resilient channel and it works very well. Use at least two layers of 1/2" drywall with consstruction adhesive between the layers. Also use fiberglass insulation in the walls and ceiling.
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I have built a dedicated room from scratch using this method as reccommended by ASC. Luckly I found a drywall guy who was experienced with the RC-1 so it went up pretty fast. Two layers of 1/2" sheet rock. Using the adhesive instead of the ASC damping strips sounds interesting as the ASC damping material is very expensive. Took me a full day just to install the damping material.
Joeb....I originally chose to use RC because I was sharing my house with a couple of other people and wanted to soundproof my room as much as possible. Music will get into the studs and travel all over the house without the RC, which very effectively isolates the studs from the drywall. The use of fiberglass is also very important. It works really well, and I do listen to loud music sometimes when playing my electric bass, but rarely over 100 dB. If you do not really need soundproofing you could just use the fiberglass and two layers of drywall. The most important reason for doing all this for me was sonics, and really solid walls with insulation make a huge difference. Also, it is ideal if your room as at least an 8 foot ceiling and is in the shape of a shoebox. My room is 13 feet wide by 22 feet long. I can send a picture if you email me.
R25 insulation will virtually eliminate all midrange and treble frequencies. Attenuating bass frequencies is a whole different ball game. Bass frequencies can set your drywall into a resonant rampage. Since wooden studs are connected to the drywall, the studs can also resonate as well. Thus the bass can be transmitted throughout the entire house. That's where dRC-1 and dRC-2 sound channels can help...a lot! The above sound channels are positioned between the drywall and the studs. The sound channels act as a buffer and absorb the bass vibrations without transmitting too much bass to the studs. This is where ASC wall damp pads are useful. The wall damp pads are very effective in turning bass vibrations into heat. Yes, the system is very expensive. The whole isowall treatment costs about three thousand dollars for an average sound room. This processing includes more than a thousand wall damp pads, dRC-2 sound channels for the ceiling , dRC-1 sound channels for the walls, half inch thick felt strips that line the corners of the room at the floor, walls, and ceiling. Adhesive and step by step instructions are also included. You provide the studs, drywall, insulation, screws, and elbow grease. You could cut corners and buy only the dRC-1+2 sound channels without the wall damp pads. You could use silicone adhesive instead of wall damp, although it's not as effective. I would still recommend two layers of dry wall instead of one. The added mass helps to stop the resonance. Also it is important to use GREEN board first, and REGULAR dry wall board second. Each resonates at a different frequency and has a tendency to neutralize the resonance of the other. While hitting a wall without any treatment you will hear a BOOM sound. With the intermediate treatment you will hear a THUMP sound. With the full iso-wall treatment using wall damp material you will hear only a deadend THUD sound. Basically it all boils down to what you can tolerate with room wall resonance: BOOM!, THUMP!, or THUD!