RB300 Mod -OR- RB250 Mod, Which you feel is better

I have recently did a wire mod on my RB300. I then went further and purchased the Heavy Weight and removed the Spring from the VTF dial.

Some say the moded RB250 is better because the spring in the RB300 causes resonance problems. On the RB300 it is suggested to set the dial at 3 grams to disengage the spring. I went one further and removed it completely and I must say the arm seemed quite a bit more neutral, less coloured.

Being that I removed the spring and this was the only draw back to the RB300 compared to the RB250, does this mean I now have a modded RB250 with better bearings?

Questions, comments, opinions all welcome here on Audiogon.

Dave, the RB300 has a tapered arm tube, which should be superior in resonance characteristics to the RB250, which has a straight tube.
With the removal of the spring, and your other mods, you should be better than the RB250, or at least just as good.
You really should get the end-stub modification,if you haven't already, as that is the most effective mod for the Rega arms.
Also, shrink a small piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the finger lift, since this is known to be microphonic on the Rega arms.
Sometimes a small piece of damping material about 1/3 of the way out from the pivot, is useful, as this is the resonant point on the Rega arms.
The rb-300's vertical bearings are attached on one side and the other side where the spring is attached only is attached by the spring itself. (I have dissasembled a rb-300 and seen this). I have not disassembled a rb-250, but it appears as though it may be attached at both sides of the bearing. Does anyone know if this is true?
I did not know that the armtubes of the rb-250 and 300 were different. TWL, you seem to have experience and/or knowledge of this resonence point 1/3 up, do you know if it is the same on both armtubes?
One last question, and I should think this is an important one- what is the difference on bearings betwenn the rb-250, 300, and 600? It seems that all I have ever read about are rumors, just as real rega's are 'supposed' to be of higher quality (or not) than OEM arms made by rega.
The 1/3 point for resonance control on Rega arms works for the 250 and I've heard that is will also be effective on the tapered tubes of the higher models too.

The RB250 has adjustable bearings on both sides of the arm tube. My OL Silver takes this one step further, and uses better bearings, AND re-locates the bearings out into the yoke instead of in the arm. Way more stable.

Rega states that the bearings are upgraded as you go up the model line. I have never disassembled all these arms to check that out. The RB250 bearings seem to be sufficient, as long as they are well adjusted.

I doubt that the OEM Rega arms are not as good as "real" Rega arms. That would require a different assembly procedure, and that is unlikely. They are most probably exactly the same, with different names printed on them. I don't think that Rega would go out of their way to make a lower quality arm, that would be associated to them anyway. That would damage their reputation, and the reputations of the TT makers buying those arms, and that would not be good for anyone.
The arm tubes on the 600, 300 and 250 are all tapered. They taper from 13mm to 12mm at the headshell. As far as OEM's go, what I have noticed is that the genuine Rega 250's and 300's have more attention paid to the finishing. This is evident around the bearing yolk area on the arm.

Basement, when you say the Rega P3 is attached on one side by the spring, what exactly do you mean? Does this mean that since I removed the spring my arm is attached only by one side?

Well, I guess I thought that the RB300 looked more tapered to me, but I guess I'm wrong. Never actually measured them.
Sorry if I gave wrong info.
Kind of a tangent, but is the spring easily removed? I am a total newbie from the word go, but do like to experiment. Could one of you break down the procedure?