Quick question about the NHT SW3 passive subwoofer

Recently I had a my sub's magnet assembly fall out of alignment. Don't ask me how it happened, but i can't seem to fix it... I need a crow-bar to get the magnets apart, so putting them back together accurately has proven to be quite the burden.

(if anyone knows how to fix this, please share it with me!)

It's a 10" sub in a very sturdy 1.75 cuft enclosure I built for it. I was powering it with a mackie 1400i (which also needs a new fan). Anyway, I enjoyed the 10 inch sub very much, but I've heard many many times that for sealed subs (the sound I prefer) a 12 inch driver in a 3cuft enclosure is the optimal performance point.

This may be true, while the 10 inch sub was very punchy in the upper bass it lacked the air displacement to drive effortlessly into the lower frequency realms. Sure with a 1400 watt amp and a 1000 watt RMS sub it was possible to equalize it for lower frequency linearity. But anyone who has done this probably knows that it stops being musical and starts to sound forced.

Because of this I'm hesitant to purchase another 10 inch driver. I lack the time to build a second enclosure, but have also seen several NHT SW3's up for sale. (I'm also open to great 10 inch driver suggestions). I've heard a lot about the NHT 1259 in the past, and upon noticing that the SW3 uses the 1259 I was curious about the quality of the enclosure. Seeing as how it weighs a mere 66 lbs total (my current 1.7 cuft enclosure weighs the same), I was wondering how sturdy it was and more specifically how well it performed.

Although the SW3 seems to be pretty common (read: not a 'rare' artifact) I was surprised to see that there are no reviews of it available.

Can anyone tell me if this is a good sub for musical purposes? The low power handling makes it seem like a waste as I own such a high powered amplifier.
There are some reviews, but they go back about 7-10 years.

I've owned an SW3P combo for nine years and still enjoy it. I did think it sounded much tighter, had better tone and was better controlled when powered by a 250wpc Bryston 4B than with the mono 250w class G SA3 amp. The 1000w amp you have may be a class G design. When I talked to Mike Farnsworth of Talon Audio a few years ago, he told me the 1000 watt amps he was using to power his ROC subwoofers couldn't compete with a 250wpc AB design Bryston. I noticed however, in subsequent designs he began using different amps.

The 1259 in the recommended box design doesn't go as low as many subs out there, there are certainly better units available now. But for what it is I still think it's a good sub.