Question for E-stat owners.

Actually three questions. I have European made E-stats which operate at 230v - according to the manufacturer's specs. Since I live in the US, I have a separate 120/240 converter (same brand) in-line for each speaker. The capacity of each converter is 85 watts. The output from the converter with a speaker load on measures 230v on the nose. I don't know how much AC power an E-stat needs to charge the panels properly.

1) Is the converter capacity high enough? Or do I need a
heavier duty converter?

2) There are two power cords involved per speaker leg. One
from the wall to the converter (dedicated), one from the converter to the speaker (replaceable). These cables are wimpy - 18ga. Would better quality after-market power cords affect the sound? Do I need them on both sides of the

3) Should the power to the E-stats be run through a conditioner?

My amp is not an issue since it is plenty powerful enough thanks to a-gon advice from former thread. Thanks for your help!
What does the label at the input (converter line) indicate is the power consumption. The power to the panels is only to charge the panels and as such should not consume much power. The 85 watts seems quite adequate to me.

Of course you will hear from the power cord fanatics about using 6AWG lines so that the sound is not robbed of its impact etc., but since hardly any current goes through the power supply to the panels, hell even 22GA would work.

Since the current to the panels is DC AC power conditioners are not necessary, but there will be proponents of them.

salut, Bob P.
The purpose of the ac power supply to the electrostatic speakers is just to charge up the diaphrams to a high potential so that they can be pushed and pulled around by the audio signal. Theoretically, once the diaphrams are charged (which should take about a second) no power is needed. There will be slight leakage of the charge through the air, and if the speakers should arc (god forbid), but the power draw to cover this should be very small. Note that some electrostatic earphones actually use the small audio signal to generate the static charge.

So IMHO the power cords provided by the manufacturer are OK.
1) E-stats need high-voltage, but not much current, so the 85 watt capacity is probably fine.

2) 18 gauge is kind of wimpy, but as I said they won't be handling much current. Trying other cords wouldn't hurt, but I've never heard huge differences with AC cords on my E-stats bias supplies. I always used the better cords on the active electronic components in the system, which worked better for me. But it could be worth a try.

3) Clean power is always better, no matter what; and having some surge protection is something that would be a very good idea.
I cannot address (with certainty) the needs of your Electrostatic speaker, but for Soundlabs the power cords make an incredible difference as does the wall plug and quality of the electrical installation. Even the type and quality of protective fuse is audible.

As for running 230 volt, I would have an electrician run a 240 off your panel so you may eliminate the converter all together. While at it, I would have facility for two electrical receptacles so you can power an amplifier at 240 rather than 120. The sound is better almost 100% of the time at 240, I had this confirmed by three of my own amplifiers and by the head technician at Audio Research last Thursday. Perhaps selling the converter would pay for the electrician and “tidy up” your entire instillation.
Thanks for your responses. There seems to be some differing opinions about the importance of cable gauge. Since I'm renting, converting to 240v is unlikely, but I'm surprised to learn that it improves the audio. Why would that be?
Steakster, I had no way of knowing you were renting. I can understand not wanting to “invest” in upgrading your landlords wiring.

My reason for suggesting 240 V is because you already have need for it with existing gear. The 120 V to 240 V converter is just another piece in your electrical supply.

For instance, my Wolcott Presence may be selected to multiple voltages. When set for 120 V it steps up to 450 V (or whatever it uses) to operate. Beginning with 240 V requires one less step up to get where it needs to be. Powering at 240 volt often bypasses one step up transformer, providing a more direct (and stiffer) power supply for the equipment.

In your case 240 V would allow removing the converter at the wall and possibly bypassing a second one inside the equipment.

Powering the same device at 240 V draws less amperage through each wire, typically causing less voltage drop to the equipment. Depending on your local provider it can even lower your electrical bill.

Now with electrostatics that have low power draw, there it’s not so much an issue of getting enough power, but rather the quality of the power. I don’t know how sensitive your speakers are to their power source, but my Soundlabs respond to every change, including power cords, wall outlets and even the fuses. Just thought it would simplify your system to wire for what you already own and possibly get a performance increase in the bargain.