Question about Bi-Wiring

My speakers, Martin Logan Motion 40's, are bi-wire capable.

But I have not tried to bi-wire them just yet.

I was wondering, if I were to get better jumper cables to replace the default metal plate jumpers that came with the speakers, would that accomplish the same results as actually bi-wiring the speakers


Should I just go straight to actually bi-wiring?



@jay73 - unfortunately I recently sold those speakers with he Jumpers on them and I did not take any pictures.

But they are very simple

  • I used two pieces of VH Audio UP-OCC 18 gauge copper wire for each jumper 20 inches long
    • strip the insulation at one end of the pair for about 1/2"
    • twist tightly together
    • Then twist the two wires in a more relaxed twist
      • about one complete twist every 3 to 4 inches (see image)
    • Finish the other end in the same way - with e tight twist
    • Then on each end I use KLE Innovations Banana plugs, they provide the best sound quality
      • but you can use bananas or spades of your choice,
      • Furez makes a very good pure copper or silver plated copper spade

Hope that helps - Steve

I would just replace the metal link with a good short  wire.

Bi-wiring is making this short wire a long one, still connected to the amp but at the amp binding post instead of the speaker binding post.

As a result of bi-wiring, you just add lengths of wires, and therefore resistance.

I just bought a pair of Grover Huffman bi-wires (Empress) for my Sonus Faber Extremas and they sound noticeably better than jumpers. 

As a result of bi-wiring, you just add lengths of wires, and therefore resistance.

Technically ^that^ is not correct.
The longer wire effectively would be double the size (area) of the same wire with a jumper, and lower resistance a touch.

But it would also not really matter a whole lot either.

The MR and Tweeter take up around half of the power, unless they ar e big floor standers.