This is what I use.
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I have been researching Linear PSUs for my DAC and can offer you some suggestions. First, check the specs of your unit; it's 12V, but you need to know it's amperage. You can use a power supply with slightly higher amps, because the RR-888 will only draw the amount it needs.
Also, it's important that the unit has a high-quality transformer, and a regulator which can filter noise from returning back down the line to the mains.
The PSU's made in the US and UK are highly regarded.
As for buying from China, I have only found one brand that has been receiving high praise; Teradak, and reasonably priced.
Their dealers sell on ebay. Again, you need to match the specs of your unit with the specific power supply.
Teddy Pardo is a top rated PSU, but you pay for that quality.
I've heard great things about the Teddy Pardo PSUs, but I've also had very good luck with the KingRex supplies as well. Unfortunately, the price has risen with the MKII upgrade--which I don't think is significant enough, sonically, over the MKI on the AR devices to justify the upgrade, but that's just me.
Whatever PSU you choose, try experimenting with power cords on the supply. You might be surprised.
As a lower-cost (but still very effective) alternative, possibly contact Jennifer Crock at Jena Labs. She does a fairly inexpensive filtration tweak to the stock wall wart that, in my experience, is as effective as many linear supplies I've tried. I use that on my second Schumann device.
thanks for your suggestions but I have one question. How do I find the specs on my RR-888? I've looked but can't find any info on its specs. The only specs I can find is on the walwart PSU that came with the unit. Printed on the walwart PSU:
I/P:. AC 100-240V 50/60 Hz 0.3A
O/P: DC 12V 1A
I can't match the specs of my RR-888, with the specific PSU, as I don't know, and can't find these specs.
Can you, or anyone else help me out?
Yes, the KingRex PSU is now over $400. If that's what I have to spend that's ok, but I'm trying to research (with the help of fellow A'gon members) if the less expensive PSU's, for the RR-888, would work just as well.
I will try some different PC's,, and thanks for the suggestion to check with Jena Labs to see if that is as effective as purchasing a different, "upgraded" PSU.
O/P: DC 12V 1AThat says to me that the wall-wart takes your AC from the wall, converts it to DC, and has 1 amp DC available to power your AR RR-888. I’ve found that often when buying an aftermarket linear power supply, the numbers won’t exactly match the unit you are trying to power. That’s because the wall-wart being used is the exact voltage and amperage for each electrical device that it is driving.
As long as the aftermarket PSU has 1 amp or greater, it will have enough current. You should confirm this with the dealer of the PSU you choose to buy. And contact Acoustic Revive to confirm the power specs.
Also, do you think this is really worth pursuing? Will I really get an improvement over the stock PSU with the RR-888?From all the user reviews I’ve read of linear PSU’s vs. stock "switching power supplies" (wall-warts), there is a noticeable lowering of the noise-floor in audio gear. It stands to reason that a quality unit will improve performance in the RR-888.
Oh, and one more thing, I have discovered many shoot-outs of PSU’s online and the cheap Chinese crap is just that when compared to the US or UK brands. And it was always for the same reason, lesser quality parts and small transformers.
The top rated were Teddy Pardo, KingRex, Paul Hynes Design, TeraDak (good bang for the buck).
had great luck w/ this. R-core tranny & good parts. was a massive improvement vs stock (caused a physical sensation w the 888 for a few hours til i adjusted), and won in a shootout vs a couple others (not the high $ ones mentioned above, which were not included).
If anyone is still reading this thread, I hope you can give some advice. I'm thinking about buying an external PSU such as the Kingsrex or other, but need to know the size of the dc plug input. In a thread on another site, someone wrote inner diameter 2.0mm, outer diameter 4.5mm. Can anyone confirm this is accurate? And do the measurements need to be precise?