Power Strips

While i can't vouch for any of the Monster's below the HS-2000, i'm "guessing" that the HTS-1000 should also work. If anyone is looking for a unit of this type, try doing a search for the specific brand that you want at:

www.yahooshopping.com

The results will probably make you QUITE happy with the pricing that you can find some products for. Not only are some of these places very "cheap" to start off with, Monster has come out with a new line and many places are literally blowing the original HTS serious out the door. Sean
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The monster 2000 can often be had for less than list price and can be made even better by placing a Highwire powerWrap{[24.99] at Music direct}, on the fixed power cord. In my system there was a further lowering of the depth of blackness from which the music emerged with even more ease....why this should be so I do not know....perhaps someone else will try this to see what they hear? The Wire wrap is meant to be used on fixed power cords. I had one laying around and stuck it on the monster and , well, its one of those funny, I hear it, but I woodna thunk it kinda things....its staying.

Chang Lightspeed offers affordable *quality* line conditioners with multiple outlets & integral surge protection.

As with Jeffloistarca, or make your own power strip. (unless you are in the market for, or have the bucks for a audio grade unit). Avoid surge protectors, unless true audio grade. Buy some Electrical cable Sheilded if you wish, as many duplex boxes as you need, and hospital grade outlets... wire it together and voila' a high grade power strip for a fraction of the price.

I had the same problem when I put together a HT. Rather than use a power strip I cut out some of the gyproc wall directly beside the existing plug and ganged together two more electrical boxes. You end up with six outlets at a cost of $10. All you need is two more electrical boxes, two more duplex plugs, a little bit of wire, and a 6-outlet face plate. Took me about 2 hours all told. This may not be considered ideal by some folks, but to me the HT set up isn't about high-fidelity so expensive power conditioners, quality strips, or dedicated electrical circuits aren't necessary IMHO. Save a few bucks, and spend the windfall on records.

The least expensive surge-protector (not power conditioning) that will not make the video or sound worse is the Vansevers Companion at $30.

I do think conditioning is a good idea, more for video quality than sound. My favorite budget conditioner that will make the video sharper and clean up the audio some is the Audio Power Pack II ($239 at AudioAdvisor.com and elsewhere).

You should consider the purchase of a Monster Cable HTS 2000 power center. It is a power conditioner/surge protector which retails at about $200. You can buy it cheaper on ebay and you may be able to get it here also. There are others that may be better but this one gets high marks at a good price point. Get it from an authorized dealer if the $100,000 conected equipment warranty is important to you. You will see immediate improvement on video. Audio will take a few days to break in.

For an HT, you might consider Monster HTS 1000 or 2000 (or their successor models, if you buy new).

You might like using a "power conditioner." A good one should (1) protect your equipment from power spikes (e.g., when a falling tree branch severs the line to your house, a power spike can occur and damage your equipment), (2) isolate your components from each other so there is no potential for interaction (e.g., digital devices may screw up your analog sound), and (3) reduce noise riding in on the power current (e.g., choppy noise from vacuum cleaners).

I have a regular power strip from Radio Shack that protects one of my systems, but doesn't isolate or condition the power. I don't do a lot of critical listening on this system. I use a Tice Signature Power Block IIIc HP for my main system. It does all three. I like it because it has a lot of outlets, it comes with two power cords that can plug into two different outlets (rather than pulling all its juice out of just one plug/outlet), it is rated to handle all the power my rig requires (some power conditioners have circuitry that maxes out above a certain wattage), and it's built like a tank. There are plenty of other good power conditioners employing a variety of technologies to choose from. Reviewers and aficiondos claim to have heard differences between them; perhaps you will, too. The dirtier your wall power is, the more you might benefit. Happy listening!

As a starting point, an audio-grade power strip with surge
protection is what I used. The important thing is to
physically isolate the power cables as a group from
interconnect and speaker cables.