Power Re Generator capacity questions


I am looking into purchasing a power re generator for my surround setup.  I have heard many reviews of its benefit in a system.  I do not understand the size of the unit I would need, wattage wise, to handle the system and not get over loaded from too much being put into it.  I suppose the biggest question is does the WPC of each amp translate into the total number needed for that particular component?  For instance, I have three large load components included in my system.  I have a 2 channel and a separate 3 channel amp - each one rated 200 WPC into 8 ohms as well as a 512 watt into 8 ohms powered sub.  The combination of those 3 components would appear to mean that I need a re generator that handles approx. 1500 watts for just those 3 pieces alone.  I would then have a universal player, plasma tv, set top box, tube pre amp and a small surround processor to add in after that.  Am I understanding this correctly?  Do I need to look for a unit that handles 2500 watts or so to cover all of my gear or are these wattage numbers from my gear the wrong numbers to calculate in the first place?  Any help would truly be appreciated.

llippman

Showing 6 responses by llippman

Davehrab - you're my 'savior' right now! 

Really, I SO appreciate that you took that amount of time to break it down for me.  I have spoken to a PS Audio rep as well as a store that sells PS Audio gear here on the site (I'll leave the name out due to respect).  They both claimed that I would need a P10 plus another unit (like a P5).  The store that sells on this site claimed I was going to need 2 P10s to run it.  I found that a little hard to believe but wasn't sure.  I was thinking along the same lines as to how you intelligently explained it.  I just wasn't sure if I was wrong. 

Knowing me, I would have purchased two, spent too much bread on something that I could have gotten away with by spending half the price.  I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your detailed insight.  This is why I always come here with a question.  You are another great guy in a great community. 

One last request of your opinion.  Being that I have 3 high current draw items; 2 channel amp, 3 channel amp and large powered sub.  Would you purchase one P10 and work it heavily or 2 P5s to split up the high current drawing components?  Money wise, if I can get a reasonable deal on a new or used one, one P10 beats out trying to buy 2 P5s I am sure.  However, it means nothing if the P10 couldn't keep up.

Given your breakdown I now think that using one P10 is the way to go.
Thanks for that offer of researching the power draw of my system.
My system contains the following;
Adcom 5500 2 channel amp
Adcom 5503 3 channel amp
Reimer 1000 Watt sub (through Parts Express)(Class G)
Audio Refinement Pre2 DSP surround processor
OPPO BDP 93 Universal player
Panasonic TC-P65VT30 Monitor
Modwright LS 36.5 Tube Preamp
Motorola QIP7232 2 Settop box
Reimer surround speaker system (not applicable)
Folkfreak:
Yet another extremely generous member of the agon community.  I so appreciate the time and effort you took to assist me.  

Collectively, through the info I have been shown from you guys I am thinking P10 for the system and maybe something like an older model P600 for the sub OR keep the current API power wedge 114 I currently use for the sub exclusively?.  Another member here on the site has a P600 for sale, for pickup only, here in NY near where I live.  I could use that 600 exclusively for the sub so as to not overload the P10 on peak draw times.  However, maybe the power wedge I currently own would do the trick?  

When you said 'more basic' what did you have in mind for the sub?  Not bothering with a regenerator and just stick to an older heavy duty power conditioner like I currently use (see below)? 

My system is currently going into a standard Monster conditioner for TV and Verizon box only and I have an Audio Power Industries Power Wedge 114.  The API says it is 'Designed
for mid-sized systems with up tp 4 source components. One 150Watt, three 120 Watt and four amplifier outlets.'

Maybe I could just use the API power wedge I currently own strictly for the sub and then only need to buy a P10?  I assume the reasoning is because youre dealing with the bottom frequency range and other than tightness and peak audio punches it would be difficult to hear much of a difference between what you choose to use for it?  In other words, don't bother spending money on the 600 since you wouldn't audibly hear a difference between using it exclusively on the sub as opposed to the power wedge?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

If I head down the conditioner road rather than the regenerator road, are you partial to any of the RSA, RS or Shunyata models in particular?

I looked at a couple used offerings like the RS Dimitri (accepts 2400W - the magic number for me) and the Shunyata Cyclops V1...  

They definitely ARE cheaper and less current limitations.  I just hope that it would provide the dramatic auditory difference over how I am hooked up now and as good as regenerating the power.

I appreciate you caring whether I get the right piece for me or getting something I will just have to roll over on the market.

The gear that you see in my setup (and no disrepsect was taken) is optimized to some degree.  Most of it was purchased and modified.  Both Adcom amps were modded by Stan Warren.  The Oppo player is the modded NuForce Extreme Edition 93.  The Modwright has swapped Russian Military Tubes, A handmade Reimer surround speaker setup.  Upgraded power and 5.1 analog wiring for surrounds.  I have put some work and money into what I plainly listed for the system.  That is why a move of this nature to purchase a good power setup can make a big improvement in my system.  It is the one step I haven't spent enough on in the chain up to this point.

I am seriously considering bidding on that Dmitri on your recommendation.  Trying amps and source gear through it and keeping the sub powered through the Power Wedge (making the wedge now exclusive to the sub].  I understand you haven't used it for your amps so can't speak to it.  It certainly appears from specs to be able to handle the current draw I require.


Thank you Al - great additional input.  I will get a multimeter and test it out.  I think a friend of mine has one...  I so appreciate everybody's time and knowledge in trying to help me pick the right product.  This is such a great community.