My experience is that power cord changes on the preamp and phono preamp had the most effect, however you experience may be different.
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I've found that (in general) components that have lower quality power supplies can show more discernible improvements than those with extremely high quality power supplies.
Today's electronics are capable of pretty good resolution, but the more "cost effective" power supply used in the more affordable components tends to reduce their capabilities. A good power cable will augment a less capable power supply and benefit the components overall performance.
e.g. my Bifrost DAC, with a small transformer, achieved considerable improvement, whereas my NAIM amp, which has a large transformer, showed little improvement when using the same "quality" power cable
Here are three options of power cords that are very worthwhile to look into at three different price ranges, all inexpensive in my opinion. I own all of them and I can attest to the fact that are all very good and will compete with power cords costing between $1000 to $2000 or more.
Send me a message if I can further answer any questions for you regarding these power cords.
Cerious Technologies Graphene power cords (Red for CDP and/or Preamp, Blue or Yellow for amp): https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/cerious-technologies-new-graphene-cables
Core Power Technologies CPT-150 or CPT-300:
Silver Ghost (here on Audiogon): https://www.audiogon.com/listings/ac-cables-6-silver-ghost-custom-made-silver-rhodium-woven-power-co...
I second those who say you must experiment; and williwonka has basically
explained why. BTW there's nothing "fanatical" about better power cords-except the pursuit of ultimate quality by those attempting to provide the best, like MIT Cable for example .If you have
a system capable of revealing the differences,listen to types of music where increased resolution, refinement and dynamics are important to you, and if you have a suitable listening environment then -if you experiment- voila ! you will understand. Elementary my dear Watson.
For your guidance, quote taken from your manual. (I currently own the C-X7eMP)
"...Ayre C-5xeMP may be plugged directly into an
unswitched wall outlet. Although proprietary RFI
(radio-frequency interference) filtering is built into
the disc player, in some situations an AC power-line
filter (such as those offered by Ayre) may provide
additional sonic benefits..."
Goor luck with your new power cable!
I haven't heard a power cord cause any difference on a source or pre yet--though I haven't done a ton of testing on those two components. I've heard some fairly large differences on a power amp, but I suspect williewonka is correct. Even the Argento Flow Master Reference made no difference on my Sanders Magtech when compared to Groneberg Quattro Reference.
I've tried Shunyata Alpha HC (~$1200), Cerious Graphene Blue ($550), Groneberg Quattro Reference ($200), Argento Flow Master Reference (~$6000), Acoustic Zen Tsunami II (~$300).
Just musing out loud here but hope some worthwhile thoughts.
At what stage do you consider it is worth your time and money to invest in upgraded PC?
I mean there has to be at least a certain level of quality to your system to start with for them to make any discernible difference? Not much point spending $300 on a PC when your disc spinner is worth $250.....
Seriously curious as I do have a fair sum tied up in my system but mostly in components.
Cardas Quadlink 5c xlr interconnects
Straightwire Octave 2 speaker cable
As the BAT requires 2 x 15a PC, I used the stock cords going to a dedicated 2 way box I made from hospital grade components with a 3 ft whip of 8 gauge cord and a wattgate plug.
All other equipment has maybe $50 PC.
Is it time to follow the White Rabbit down the black hole of PC improvements?
My experience has been that it depends to some degree on your components. If you have a tube preamp, a good cord makes a significant difference. My Joule Electra preamps have always liked the old school ribbon style (Electraglide et. al.) Next would be the source. But pretty noticeable tailoring can be done on the power amp side too. I can easily tell the difference going from stock cords on my amps, to Pangea 14SE or 9SE, to TG Audio HSRi, to a 9 gauge silver cord, and up, etc. I suspect many of us have a box/closet full of many that have fallen by the wayside, especially because once they are bettered, there's usually no going back.
IMO, if a component has a Panel Mount IEC Connector Plug then I would add an upgraded power cord.
In your case you have a very nice system that will improve with the addition of upgraded power cords.
You don’t have to spend a fortune for power cords, I'm recommending several to you that have huge bang for the buck and in my mind are relatively inexpensive however that most likely depends on one's pocket book.
Listed in no special order:
Cerious Technologies Graphene (Red, Blue or Yellow)
Core Power Technologies
Anticables Level 3 Reference
Silver Ghost (sold on Audiogon)
Blue or Green power cord made with Furutech wire (my current favorite and a true killer of the ones I mentioned, in my system).
I am certainly not against trying out some PC but just did not like the idea of throwing money after hard earned money away for possibly very little return.
Before the esoteric i had a krell player and i thought the krell was superb, until i upgraded to the esoteric....yes there was $3k difference in price but it was a difference I could HEAR.
Not implying I am about to drop $3k on any PC but you get my drift, whatever I purchased I would seriously hope I could discern something.
However as it is probably the single area i have not spent any serious cash on I should take deep consideration on your suggestions
I totally understand ;-)
The power cords I recommended to you, can be purchased new for between $160-$650, most around the average cost of $300.
I know there are a lot of other power cords available, but the ones I mentioned, I have in my two audio systems. I've also owned and still have some power cords that range in price between $1000-$6500.
If I had only known then what I know now I could have saved some dollars! LOL, part of the hobby and learning cirve.
I recently found great improvements in my system with the low end Silnote Posideon and Shunyata Venom 3 PC. Both are around $100 and offer a 30-day trial period. The Silver Ghost PC was also auditioned, but offered far less improvement in SC that the other two. Start modestly and then move up the food chain, that is my best advice.
Why don't they still hardwire? They know we are going to throw away the power cords that come with their products, and add ours, so why would they jack up their cost.
A few manufactures do sell cords with their products. Shindo and Merrill Audio come to mind.
If you study the pricing of certain cords you can buy the best cords to see what they have to offer and resell at a gain. The best I have heard were Elrod, Ch Acoustic, and High Fidelity. l think Lak has heard these cords and likes the ones he recommended better. Very good recommendation.
Hope the OP lets us know what he thinks, even if he can't hear anything different. The lucky ones don't.
I finally received my powercords a short while ago and am breaking them in. Red for cdp, blue for amp. I will soon compare them to stock, but i have changed many variables lately, ran 2 10 guage 20 circuits to the system, speaker placement, isolation devices, cleaning out ears, etc. So, i will AB compare soon and hopefully it's not a case of the emperors new clothes. One question. With everyone touting "20 amp dedicated lines", why do the aftermarket cords just have 15amp plug ends? Won't this just choke up the current and negate benefits of 20 amp circuit? Be tolerant, i'm not the brightest bulb in the box.
Thank you, ebm, for your support and wellwishing. As i said , soon i will listen to them more critically, and try to enjoy them, as you stated. Your positive post just warms the cockles of my heart. Unfortunately my mediocre means preclude me from anything other than a mediocre powercord. I am happy for you that you are fortunate enough to rise above mediocrity in your audiophile endeavors. Maybe you can suggest a superior cable that i can save for. Sincerely, Oleg
Congratulations upon the updates you made to your system (ran two, 10 gauge 20 amp circuits to the system, speaker placement, isolation devices).
I'm sure you know this, but I want to reinforce that one might make one change at a time (baby steps) so you can hear and learn what each change in your system has accomplished. I would think the two, 10 gauge 20 amp dedicated circuits might have been the biggest game changer.
"One question. With everyone touting "20 amp dedicated lines", why do the aftermarket cords just have 15amp plug ends? Won't this just choke up the current and negate benefits of 20 amp circuit"?
Droleg, your 15 amp male plug, cannot choke the current coming out of your 20 amp circuit, a 20 amp male plug looks a little different regarding the configuration that plugs into the socket however there isn't anything that limits the AC draw. A 20 amp male plug is a built in safety feature so to speak, a 20 amp male plug usually has a 20 amp IEC on the other end and can only be plugged into a 20 amp AC wall outlet. Google the outlets and look at the pictures to see the difference.
I hope this helps clear up the confusion?
You should have some fun with those new power cords ;-)