Power conditioner for amps


I recently picked up an Adcom ACE-515 (power conditioner with timed switching for pre/source and amp products) from a fellow Audiogon member, and while it seems to work fine, I have noticed that it tends to get quite hot and will trip the circuit breaker if I run my system fairly loud for any period of time (which I do like to do on occasion). For the record, the amps that I am running through this are two GFA-555II's (bridged mono) and a GFA-2535 (which is really two GFA-535's in one chassis).

My concern is that I am running too many amps through the ACE-515. So, I called my dealer about possibly upgrading to a larger unit. But his advice was that I should be running my amps straight out of the wall outlet, and not through any type of conditioner. He said that the ACE-515 was great to use on source and preamp gear, but that it would limit the current getting to my amps and that they would sound better with nothing between them and the wall outlet. I asked him what about spikes, surges, etc. His reply was that amps are not as susceptible to damage from such things, and that I shouldn't worry about it.

What are y'alls thoughts on this topic? Should I just plug my amps straight into the outlet, or should I get a larger power conditioner? I do like the staggered power on, power off that the ACE-515 provides.

Tom.
tombowlus

Showing 10 responses by tombowlus

Brian:

That would have been my thought. Tell me, does your ACE-515 get hot? Mine really does, and it gets hotter than my amps do. I am trying to contact Adcom, but they don't seem to answer their e-mails.

Tom.
I have a high current UO for my mono amps on a dedicated line, and another standard UO for my source components on a line, and the surge issues being dealt with at the service panel.

Excellent advice! I have consulted with my electrician, and with a little playing around, I am able to come up with two free 20 amp circuits to use for my home audio system. I am now going to order two UO's. Any thoughts on where to get them from? Also, what brand/type whole house surge unit did you use?

Thanks, Tom.
Slipknot1:

Good idea about the dedicated circuit and whole house surge. I had been thinking about that for a while. I have not heard of the PS Audio Ultimate Outlet. I will have to look into that.

Thanks, Tom.
Slipknot:

Sorry for not crediting you with that quote. I did know it was you. And thanks again for the good advice! Also, great point about sticking with Audiogon sellers. This is, indeed, a great resource, and I'd like to see its supporters continue to thrive.

Nighthawk:

Good point about finding a dealer with a return policy. From what I have read about the UO's, it seems very strange that they would have a detrimental effect upon your system. Any idea what it was about the UO that caused the dynamics issue?

Later, Tom.
Just curious if you folks using Ultimate Outlets also used PS Audio Power Ports, or if regular old receptacles would do the trick. Also, I obviously want the high current for my amps, but I am not sure if I should get the 15 amp or the 20 amp. Is there any downside to the 20 amp? Is there any downside to using a high current UO for source/preamp gear?

One last dilemma that I face is that I have four amps to plug in. If I use one dedicated line for the amps, I still only have two outlets. Do you recommend that I wire in a second outlet on that circuit, or should I use a juice bar or some other kind of multiple outlet box after the UO?

I intend on continuing to use the Adcome ACE-515 on the front end (though I still need to get that overheating issue addressed).

Sorry for all the questions. You people have been a great resource!

Thanks, Tom.
Not a bad idea, Slipknot. With any luck, I will be able to install two new 20A lines, in addition to the shared circuit that is already there. Between these three circuits, I should be able to adequately divvy everything up. It sounds like I will want to get one or two high current UO's, and at least one Juice Bar. After talking to customer support from PS Audio, I will probably be pulling the ACE-515 from my audio system entirely. Now, my only problem will be remote on/off control, since in my setup, the Juice Bar(s) will probably be at the back of my cabinet, and not easily accessable. One option may be to see if my electrician can build me two "Juice Bar-like" boxes, with remote on/off switches for each. I would think that if he uses quality components (probably Power Ports), star-wired, with good attention to detail on the construction side, I should be able to get a decent product.

My one remaining question would be whether or not I need a Power Port or two on the wall, or if decent quality receptacles would be adequate.

Thanks again, Tom.
Well, after talking extensively with my local dealer and with Albert Porter, I am going to pick up three UO's (two regular and one 20 amp high current) for my three circuits (two dedicated) that will power my stereo/HT system. On the two regular UO's, I will be installing Porter Ports. I will also throw Porter Ports on the wall outlets for all three circuits, and I am picking up an extra one to use when I add a powered sub. Instead of a Juice Bar, I am going to have an electrician friend of mine build me two double gang breakout boxes (using Porter Ports, of course!). So, that's a total of 10 Porter Ports! Based upon all the glowing reviews by AudiogoN members, I decided they were worth investing in. Now, my only issue remains turning everything on and off with one or two switches. My electrician has recommended that I use wall switches to turn off my dedicated circuits (one for preamp/source and one for amps), which may actually be a killer idea.

Thanks for all the input, especially from Slipknot!

Take care, Tom.
Did any of you folks check out the article by Art Dudley in the November issue of Stereophile wherein he compares the merits of the PS Audio Power Ports to a "run of the mill" receptacle (in this case the Eagle 426)? He appears to start off as a skeptic, but finds audible and consistent benefits to the Power Port. The Hubbell 8300 does get a brief mention, though there is no head to head against it and the Power Port (which is made by Hubbell).

Also, FWIW, I had fellow AudiogoNer Ernie Meunier make me up some 4-way boxes (without receptacles) with in-line switches to solve my switching dilemma. I am going to install Porter Ports in the boxes, and I have already swapped out the standard receptacles in my (non-high current) Ultimate Outlets with Porter Ports. The two new dedicated lines have yet to be installed, but I will report back once everything is up and running.

Tom.