Power Cables


I am currently upgrading my system.  I had a pair of XLO Ultra speaker cables sitting around and was very impressed with the improvement over the original Monster cable.  Having come back from Axpona, I am wondering what fellow Audiogon members would recommend for a power cable with tight bass, superb mids and extended highs that would help to produce a very full, wide and deep soundstage.  I am looking to replace the cable on my Adcom GFA-5802.  I do agree with philosophy of starting with the power.  I have demoed one other power cable and the difference is immense.  Thanks in advance for the advice.
spipa
You didn't mention any budget constraints, so I will go ahead and recommend that you try a High Fidelity Professional Series power cord. ;^)
Good point.  I will be auditioning cables up to the Nordost Heimdall 2, so maybe $700-$800 (ish) I would prefer to stay within the $400-$500 range unless nothing seriously impresses me.
That might be a bit above the budget....
What do you mean by a very full, wide and deep soundstage? I have heard of a wide and deep soundstage. Are you talking about a full sound (Rich, vibrant, musical, etc.)?

If so, your list confuses me. As normally extended highs and tight bass go together with more transparent cords like Nordost, while full sound and superb mids go together with warmer sounding cords like Elrod EPS-2/3 Signatures. I don't know of a cord that does it all, especially at that price range.

Usually folks are either looking for more transparency (speed, resolution) OR more musicality (warmth, fullness). Going in one direction usually takes you further away from the other direction. Just as one cannot go east and west at the same time. Most folks like to balance the sound to suit their tastes, but to do that, you need to know what direction you want to head in from the start.

If you don't know, no harm, you will just need to experiment for yourself and see which direction works best for you. The Nordost will provide excellent speed and resolution, but can sound thin and sterile in some systems. Cords like the Elrod, Acoustic Zen Gargantua II , etc., can sound very rich and musical, but can also sound slow and lifeless in some systems.

In the end, you pays yer money, you makes yer choices.
Check out Audio Sensibilities. Super cables with Furukawa PCOCC copper. Plus the exchange rate from Canada is is in your favor.
For an Adcom 5802 I wouldn't go crazy. Kimber PK10 Ascent will be plenty good or find a used but same PK10 Gold. $400 or less new. If you don't have dedicated circuits and decent receptacles to start with you're not going to hear the full potential of your amp or a better PC. If you don't have dedicated circuits, I'd start there first.
True.  I do have a Furman power conditioner and I have upgraded my pre-amp to a McIntosh C2500.  The next component upgrade will probably be the MC452, unless I go with used 501s or 601s. 

Thank you for the input.  I was referring to a full and rich sound and what you said does make sense jmcgrogan2.  That balance will be interesting to find.
spipa-

what an excellent opportunity to discover some nice cables/cords in your system. Since you like McIntosh gear, talk w/ other owners to get their point of view on cabling. This is the 1st place to start. There are Mac owners here and over on Audio Asylum.

Keep me posted & Happy Listening!
Go for XLO Powercable, excellent quality

I would spend the money to replace the Adcom before spending crazy money on a Power Cord.

The PK-10 powercabels are a lot better than the powercables in the lower price ranges of Nordost. I know it, I sold them for over 9 years of time.

The limitation of the Nordost is that they are incomplete. Even the Nordost Valhalla powercables ( I owned them and sold many of them) are incomplete.

So what is incomplete? Sound is created by about 8-9 different parts you judge sound for. Stage depth has always been a week point of Nordost and still is.

The other limitation is individual focus of instruments and voices. In real voices and instruments are small and direct. Nordost is not good in creating a very small and direct focus of instruments and voices like other cables can. PK-10 is superior in this part compared to any Nordost powercable.

Each brand owns his own d.n.a. in sound and how the stage is being build. I know exactely the properties of Nordost. I have done hundreds of tests with them in the past.

That is why you cannot use a brand blind in a set. Because you need to be ware of the properties.

In the 9 years I sold Nordost I often combined it with Kimber interconnects to make the overall sound complete.

Nordost power, interconnect and loudspeaker cables are togheter incomplete.

When you change the Nordost interconnect by a Kimber interconnect you add different properties.

What did it change compared to a whole set of Nordost?

It made te stage deeper and wider, the individual focus became a lot shaper, intimate and palpable. And the mid freq became richer and more musical involving.

That is why you need to understand the properties before you can buy any brand. This will never give good results.




" for a power cable with tight bass, superb mids and extended highs that would help to produce a very full, wide and deep soundstage."

wow -- tough task indeed, because sound signal does not flow through the power cable.
In your budget, checkout used HiDiamond P3     Excellent cable for the money.  
Spipa, if you are going from Adcom to Mcintosh you are going to get way more of what you are seeking with the change naturally.  Mac and Adcom amps have very different "sounds."  

Why wouldn't you wait on PC's until you get your new amp?

I have found Mac's are not as sensitive to PC's as other amps, my Classe is a good example.  I use Wywires juice on my Mac 501's and find they do not emphasize any characteristic of the amps but simply lower the noise floor for a blacker background.

I just posted a (very) mini review of the Mad Scientist Audio The First PC on Audio Asylum.  Before you open your wallet to greedy hands, give these a try.  Also, the NEO has gotten rave reviews.  It's a bit more expensive.  Due your due dillignce.
Excellent info here guys. Happy Listening!
spina
I would check High Fidelity MC O.5 (not a power cable) I would plug it into the same wall socket that has your existing power cord plugged into. Well below your budget, with all of the quality you are looking for in sound. and comes with a return policy if its not what you want. BUT I MUST WARN YOU they are very addicting the more you add to your system the better the sound gets. I started with 1 and now up to 8 with the notion that i will be adding more.
Enjoy Pete
I would suggest you to grab MC452 or go with used 501s or 601s before you spend any money on power cords. 
You could try Synergistic Research's new RED or BLACK PC. I haven't heard them yet, but they have similar attributes as their highly regarded fuses. Very affordable with a 30 day trial offer.
@spipa, I just received the Synergistic Research Black PC from the Cable Company and it is amazing. If you are looking for an upgrade for your Adcom, this may be it.
Deep, tight bass, excellent imaging and a soundstage that extends beyond the speakers.

Spipa, I just spent several weeks reviewing several brands of chord for my C50 / 601 McIntosh set up.  Had two separate Mc dealers suggest Audience chords and that's what I decided to go with.  More detail, tighter control and very musical.  Best my system has sounded. Worth the $.
As a owner of mc452, I dont think a powercord will do so much to an amp.  I have no idea why people could hear so many different things from copper /silver what the cable is made of.   I can sell you my nrg2 if its not too cheap to you. I bought it because it looks better than the standard cord. 
For amps, I have used all iterations and generations of PS Audio cables. Currently running AC-12 and love it. (I'm using all Shunyata for my front end). 

I don't know much about electrical engineering, but keeping it simple with high quality copper of a decent gage has served me well on amps. 
If I may suggest a power cord that has literally transformed my system to greatest levels. Clean, dead silent, alive, life-like. I cannot stress if anyone should try these power cords will not be able to take them out....they are that good........anyone??
bacardi, I would like to know.

Core Power Technologies. These are seriously amazing power cords. I think once you try these in your system your jaw will drop in amazement. You WILL keep them in your system. They have a 50, 150, 300 model. 
Thanks for all the ideas (esp the Mcintosh owners).  I have an MC275 with OEM power cord and looking to upgrade.  Any other thoughts on a good $300-$500 power cable?  Anyone think a certain brand of power cable would influence tube amps or is power=power?  I've decided if I'm spending this kind of money on a system that I am going to ABX test in-home.  I recently did this at a store and compared interconnects at $100 and $450 and speakers at $9K and $16K.  Got it "wrong" on both (not truly wrong - I'm old enough to know I like what I like.  Interesting, but a little-dated article where a well-designed ABX study with a solid n showed 49% got the "correct" answer when looking at Valhalla from Nordost ~$4,000 against some <$100.  Love to hear the counter argument.  This article does give a rationale behind audiophiles vs. non-audiophiles not being able to pick up difference.  This reads like a NEJM study:...http://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_4/feature-article-blind-test-power-cords-12-2004.html
@bacardi,  Very interesting; the Equi=Core 50, 150, and 300 models are rated in watts. I assume this relates to the transformer box.
How do you choose a cable for low-current components based on watts?

I can only say that I have a 150 on my subwoofer(Rel G1) that I can't take off. I do have an Equi=Core 300 from my dedicated 20amp Furutech GTX-D rodium wall outlet to my 6 receptacle line outlet that everything in my system plugs into. I am awaiting two more 150's for the rest of my components. 
I do believe the watts are a general guide to components wattage that each cord can handle in sum.