I like the low cost Transparent Audio power cords on my Integra gear, not sure the model names/numbers...
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At $200, I would strongly consider DIY with quality build components. The connectors on most run of the mill brand offerings at the sub $200 price-point are built with their lowest available price point offerings , ergo a low level,
invariably you will get a step up with FURUTECH, OYAIDE, LFD, Wattgate and a bevy of other contenders , and choose a similar quality cable (FURUTECH, BELDEN, OYAIDE, KLOTZ ET AL....)
Contemporaneously, just forking out $$$ on your receiver new PC in isolation is no answer either and won’t get you to Audio OZ.
Receivers are just packed in uni boxes with inherent significant compromises therein, and they lack the necessary high end power supplies found in quality build components to warrant a big step up in a PC.
NOTE Without prejudice to the comment above, UNLESS
(I) you also run a dedicated power line from the breaker panel box to your wall plug socket AND
(I) you also upgrade that wall plug to a minimum level of “hospital grade” instead of the 89 cent one from Home Depot (builder grade),
then don’t be disappointed or perplexed if a contemplated PC upgrade alone (the final short link in the array) doesn’t get you to a higher audio performance level.
What are you trying to fix/improve? Do you think the cable is not well shielded and letting in EMI? If you are having ground loop issues, you can get a power conditioner or something. A power cable carries no sound, if just supplies wattage, a $200 cable doesn’t supply more wattage; but as I said, it may be better shielded, but even adding a ferrite bead can help.
There is no difference in frequency response, THD, jitter, dynamic range, crosstalk, etc. Like I said, a power cable just allows your wall outlet to feed into the receiver, so all it needs to do is to be able to support the amount of wattage it’s handling, as well as be decently shielded for EMI.