Power Amplifier Longevity


Hi All, 
I am venturing into the separate component world and was wondering how long a good power amp typically lasts.  I may have access to some older Lexicon CX and LX series amplifiers.  However, since they are discontinued and nearly 20 years old from what I understand, should I be concerned with how much longer they will last?  If they do need servicing, is this something that is available at a reasonable cost?  Or should I invest in newer equipment?

Budget is a concern for me which is why I am interested in these older (higher quality) amps at a reduced price versus spending the same amount on something newer, but lower quality.

At this time, I have a Marantz AV8802A and Vienna Acoustics speakers. 
Main L/R - Mozart Grand
Center - Maestro Grand
4 Surrounds - Waltz Grand

I thank you in advance for any advice provided on this subject.
Brian


brianb339

Showing 3 responses by jollygreenaudiophile2

You people are a bit confused. Full of hyperbole, misinformation and bad advice. And I swear a few of you have as well, bad intentions. 
 I am sure at least a few of you will disagree. But your arguments are devoid of ANY, "actual", facts. It is "Heresey", at best, and even that's a stretch!
    Caps? What? Are they suddenly evil? Has ANYONE commenting here ever replaced a capacitor in ANYTHING? Doing it themselves OR even paying to have it done?
 Brian, Do not listen to all the Malarky, Please.
How long is an quality capacitor designed to last for? Why oh why, does everyone that has simply owned more than one decent amp think they understand electronics?

 For instance....The comment above? See #1, 2 and 3 on his "Amp check off list". He has not the foggiest notion of what he is saying. 
1, You CANNOT purchase any electrical device in the USA that does not have either an IR limiter, "The common BUS, Fuse is one type". OR IR limiting is designed into it! .It would be otherwise illegal to sell! "Per any version of the NEC"!
2, Runs cool???? Please feel free to email Nelson Pass that please. "He could use the laugh". That's about the funniest thing I have heard from someone claiming to understand rudimentary modern amplification.
3, Um......Ha ha ha ha ha, Yeah, "We tend to do better than one,  automatically"!. "That would be during the design phase of a product".
     Get my point Brain?
I currently own more Nelson Pass, designed amps than will even fit in a 12' x 12' room in my home. And I am about to put a bunch up for sale.
 I guess no one here talking about Pass amps has ever noticed that nearly ALL of them have "NO", ext. heat venting whatsoever. Heat is your friend in that type of amp architecture. The largest 2-channel he ever designed? I JUST sold mine. An orig. "X-350". It NEVER ran hot. "Surface's never above 118 degree's F."...And if it is ever re-capped? It will sound like crap and probably "begin", to run hot.
 My "Aleph 0", mono-blocks from Pass Lab's did run hot. Maybe because they were attached to the worlds largest transducers playing down, down, down to "Who knows where". But those, "Theoretically". Will double down the ohm load into infinity anyways. OR at least until they melt. "Did that once".
Caps dry out because they have burst. They leak when that happens. They burst because of misuse. Not really from age. "The capacitors built in Mason Jars, and over 100years old from the workshop of Mr. Tesla are still, NOT dry". We are still using his basic design for caps. "Except for the new super caps", "Another story"..
 There is no need to replace nearly any, modern made "Electrolytic" Capacitor manufactured in the last 30-35 years, unless the amp has failed.  Why would one fail, "cap"? Usually either a bad design of cap OR amp. And nearly always they have also been abused. "Like doubling or even quadrupling the Ohm load against the intended design. By NOT hooking it up correctly! By hooking every single component you have, "Plus a few lamps, a fan and a clock". To a single residential 15 amp circuit in which the service breaker that was past it's prime a quarter century ago.....doth reside.
  If you have good gear. Especially amplifiers. Have it fully serviced AT LEAST every five years. Every two if you smoke. Good gear will last you a lifetime IF you take care of it. I have tube amps from the early '50s with the orig. tubes that still sound and run great!
 And If you would like to try one or three of the amps I mentioned above? Let me know and we will work something out. And ALL are recently serviced, guaranteed and warrantied. BY ME! and most are in your price rage I believe. "I should tell you though, I am not a dealer. I am a collector", And a small manufacturer.
You will get out of this hobby what you put into it......Good service is not cheap and depending,. May be impossible to find locally. But there are a "Plethora", Of good shops. Most small, That will do this through Mail-Order. And plan to spend a minimum of $250 having it done. Not counting shipping if you go that route.
 Finally,  "IF, someone say's they will fully service an amp for $50? And it's not a blood relative you trust? Run....."
     Still with me Brian?
And the blind man yelled, "The caps are drying out. The caps are drying out."
Ha ha, Finally a "decent", conversation on the subject.

But again, many seem happy simply to put two cents in.
 And some are worth more!
Heaudio? .....So you've designed electrical equipment and brought it to market?
 It was "UL" approved and then of course, "UL-rated? But alas,"You", did not think to have any IR limiting of any type. Added for any correction or means of protection? Well, since that really doesn't mean anything. Like your words stating that I am wrong about this. Which don't mean much either....since....

 Actually?, The odds are quite high that you "Did", in fact design IR limiting into whatever you are fooling with and bringing to market. "Knowingly OR not! If the electrical device or system followed the NEC, and any other appropriate, local authorities and their addendum, "If any". And you worked utilizing the approved guidelines, materials. Tables and math, governing electrical devices, with the same intent. And the installation and "use of". In the, "Plan, build, use. Glossary and Index." sections were also utilized with an good understanding of the NEC's, "Intent".  All in accordance with the currently, "Adopted", version of the NEC?
Then you did.  Because "We" did. Otherwise it's a bit hard to get anything "UL rated"...….
 Like the guy whom invented sand? I don't believe he designed in all of "sands" insulating properties necessarily on purpose . But since he followed basic "Physics", in the design phase of said, "sand"? 
Sand now, "has", insulative properties.....
 Just sayin....

Heaudio? 
 Also, a bus fuse, "As in ANY bus fuse". Is not IR limiting?
 I guess they are just wasting our time with the fact that they ALL have an precise "IR value", at which point they fail. (Always listed in the device, "properties"), huh?  
Which is why I have used them in designs as "Temp. emergency, "IR" breaks" in switchgear systems during emergencies.
 Also, the reason for many electrical components in a system being de-rated during design is usually for use as a "Safety Factor". Typically calculated as a proportion. These tended to be, "Pre-60's-80's". Always a minimum of 1:4- 1:5. Dependent on the quality of the product line, name and reputation etc. "These days, if used at all"? " I'll notice a percentage in de-rating specs.…."
Many really do not even know or realize. That any such animal ever existed. "The safety factor as it once was". "Kinda like the declared IR value of a fuse. And it's significance in relation to a specific electrical device or system in part OR it's entirety. 
To one, Mr. "JHertzlee", First off. I am not trying to be mean. Nor condescending. And I am simply stating the truth as I see it when I tell you that currently? You are of a mind to be more, "Part of the problem". Than, "Part of the solution". And I truly hope that in a few years you have occasion come back. Reread what you have stated above. And, "Find the light".
 Please, It sounds like your understanding of "transduction", is from a "Tech manual". And it's "Glossary", was very limited in it's scope of understanding. You may want to do a bit of research on that one.
 Also the "Heat" comment? please rethink that. "They are called (Operating temperatures). for good reasons". OR "Should I"? Keep my Hi-End, HiFi, Very expensive components "Inside" of the freezer walk-in. Which I had modified to hold these audio components and still allow the remotes to work for function? Complete with a "Remote Control Repeater". Which means they can just stay at the brisk -22F. in the filtered, Ion rich, cold air, freezer.
Would it not sound better? And last much longer?

"Otherwise, I'm leaving that one alone".  since many would think me cruel if I was to do anything else.

 And, a percentage of your income is attained by, " doing what exactly"? 
Is there perchance a "list", of the parts type. Which would, "Automatically", get changed/replaced by any of the techs working there? "This assumes whomever dropped the amplifier off. Also agreed to pay for a full servicing of the fourteen year-old, Solid State, class A/B, two channel amp with the "Very reputable name", and without, "nary" a scratch on it!. An amp which would bring say, $3800 firm, as it sits on "Audiogon". Very quickly. 
 I would be very interested in your answer, JHertz
   Change All the main, large caps? All the little one's too on the PCB? Interior fusing? Indicator Lamps? A can of WD-40, Then a can of air to blow out the Pots and dust off the PCB? Anything else? Set the Bias if applicable, Give it a listen and then "Unless another problem rears it's ugly head"? Onto the shelf to wait for it's owner? Avg. overall cost?
 I guess "Refurbished" is now the same as "Rebuilt"? or even, "Fully Serviced"?
 And just to ask, To re-flow the avg PCB in the avg. SS amp. How much would it be? if about avg?