I guess the answer is whether or not the speed needs more adjusting than usual?
To me, as the drive thread wears, I would expect to have to make speed adjustments more often to compensate for the decreased friction.
Other than that, I wouldn't know how else to decide if the thread was 'worn out' (other than breaking, of course).
I run my Platine with a linen thread. After some time the thread stretches and you need to move the motor unit away from the platter to keep the tension and speed up. With linen,it eventually snaps. With nylon, you can keep going for much longer - just make sure that the thread id taut.
Thanks Bigbucks and Charlie,
That is exactly what I'm experiencing,I'll put on an LP and the speed has slowed quite noticably,I then realized the linen(sorry I'm using linen not nylon) was extremely loose.I moved the motor further away and speed is good again.I guess I'll just keep checking for this and when the linen breaks replace.
What a great table though,having tons of fun.Just for your info I have a basis vector 3 arm and ZYX Airy 3 s-sb cart.
Any concern for the thread snapping during playing session? i.e LP or cart damage
i have a micro seiki rx1500 and the motor is separate from the platter. i use dental floss as a drive belt. there are no worries of stretching with it. you may also experiment with using 1/4" reel-to-reel tape as a belt. i have not tried it yet, but it's on the list of to-do's...
When the thread starts to stretch, you'll notice that the thread looks to have a varying diameter. If the thread snaps, it just falls down. I've had it happen to me a few times; certainly had no problems yet with it hitting the cart or arm.
Thanks Don,maybe one day I'll try those as well.
Thanks again Charlie I'll keep my eye on that.
There will be less transfer of motor vibration the looser the thread is, so looser is better, until it isn't. Too loose you'll lose speed.
"Gonners'"-- Those of you using thread drive might want to try making a belt using 30 lb. test Spyder Wire, braided not monofilament, WITHOUT teflon coating. Tie a single SQUARE knot and bond it with a drop of super glue off the tip of a hat pin. According to the manufacturer it stretches about 3/4 of 1% in length. Unless you have some type of vernier adjustment on the motor's position, or a very steady hand, it may be difficult to optimise the tension on the belt.
$15 will buy the smallest roll available, a ten lifetime supply. Any good sporting goods store will have it
I've used monofilament line for a couple of years now and it works very well. I use a very fine light weight line and then double the loop. The liter the line the smaller the knot. Can you tell us the reason for the woven line vs the mono? I have also wondered whether a no stretch line like Spider Wire would transfer more vibrations as compared to a line that has a lot of stretch.
On the Spider Line website it lists the Spider Wire original braid 125 foot spool for $20 (freshwater or saltwater, superfine). Is this what you are referring to? The Stealth and Ultracast versions are braided but appear to use teflon.
Any woven line will transmit more vibration than a mono type. If the vibration in the drive system is sufficiently high, a lighter, more elastic drive belt will certainly lower the transmitted vibration to the platter. At the same time the belt will act as a spring system as it passes around the drive pulley. It will be under tension as a point on the belt is travelling from the platter to the drive pulley and in a more relaxed state after it goes around the drive pulley and travels toward the platter.
I suppose that if the flywheel effect of the platter is great enough, the spring effect may be minute enough to be unimportant.
In my case I'm driving the platter from 3 flywheels that each weigh as much as the platter itself. I'm looking for as much driving power as possible. The woven texture of the belt not only yields better traction but also enables the super glue to get a better grip on the knot.
Looking at the many different table-drive systems we can see how a designer can use the many variables at his disposal to attain the performance level he is seeking for the price point he's aiming for.
The line you need to look for is branded "Stren Super Braid." The first roll I purchased had Teflon, I didn't realize that fact until I got home and read the information on the box. Who reads directions ? I went back to the store and asked about a non Teflon coated line. The salesman didn't even know fishing line could be Teflon coated. I began reading the boxes on display, they had to have 100 different types. I bought a box of 20 and 30 lb test and brought it home to play with.
The next day I called the mfg in Spirit Lake Iowa. 1 866 447 8736. It appears one company owns all the brands and produces them all in the same facility. Their tech department supplied me with the data on the % of stretch on the various lines. They also emailed 6 different types of anglers Knots to experiment with.
The suggestion for the knot type and super glue came from Harry Weisfield at VPI.
The product id number is szno-00200, and the sqew # is 0-42083-61200-8, $15.99 for a 125 yd roll.
If you try it, let us know how you like it.
Thanks for the information. I have seen the Stren superbraid online at Dicks and Modells. I'm using a Scheu Analog Premier table and one of the upgrades recommended is to ditch the nylon thread they supply and get fishing line. This will be an interesting experiment.
It will be great to find out how it works for you, as it will be a month or so before I can tie mine up and try it.
Pechtm, your Platine has a massive platter, if your try the braided line , your results would be interesting.
Ken, as a follow-up I tried the Stren Super Braid in both the 20lb/0.23mm and 30lb/0.25mm versions. Unfortunately, both threads made my motor pod vibrate too much and you could feel the vibration of the knot as it rotated through. I tried repositioning the motor, etc. but to no avail. Doing some additional research, fishing line that is 0.25mm in diameter is recommended for the Scheu table and I believe monofilament line is a better option. I'm getting some 10lb/0.25mm Stren Magnathin line and I'll see how that works.
I read info on the Scheu tables a while back and noticed the motor -pulley configuration. I can understand your problem with the vibration with your table. It sure seems that mono would be the ticket for your table. Mono acts more like a spring and vibration absorber that would enhance the performance of your table.
When Harry Weisfield suggested I use braided spyder wire it was based on the fact that he knew I was going to use 3 HRX drives. Each delivers the power to the table via a 15 lb flywheel that won't be prone to vibration problems that a lower mass drive system does. To each his own.
I remember the Weathers turntable , arm , and FM cartridge that I first heard in 1956 or 57. A clock type motor driving a platter around a few ounces at most, using a balsa wood arm, I think. Back then the the sound was great when comparred to the other outstanding tables of that era. Garrard 301s, Rek O Kut idler drive with huge Hysteresis Synchronous motors and Thorens TD 124s. I know I've forgotten a few. I still own 2 of them.
I hope your time and trouble will pay off for you, let us know your results.