Pioneer Direct Drives - Now and then?


I'm toying with the idea of getting into vinyl in the near future, and saw a recent model Pioneer recommended as a poor-man's Technics.  Also saw some very pretty vintage units for sale here and there.

I'm wondering if anyone has direct experience with them who could offer suggestions?
erik_squires

Showing 7 responses by elliottbnewcombjr

or, for a grand finish, start with something like this dual arm plinth, (convert CAD, the dollar is strong now) (this one is sold)

https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649402362-victor-jvc-clp2d-rosewood-plinth-for-tt71-tt81-tt101-direct-drive-turntablerare/

add a JVC Direct Drive Spinner, i.e. TT61, 71, 81

start with a stereo arm in the rear. add a long stereo arm on the side. then change the rear cartridge to mono, bingo you end up with a teeeerific TT system.
Hi,

I was looking intensely for a TT for my office system, and wanted either semi or full automatic. The Pioneer PL-530 caught my eye and budget also. I agree with Chackster, with higher budget, the PL-70II is a great choice.

Have you ruled out JVC or Denon DD?

Hopping about this am, I noticed, the PL-530 is not Quartz Locked. If you can fine one you like, Quartz Lock is better IMO. PL-505; A500; 707 are in that price range.

Fully Manual, this one with a solid wood base is on eBay, a curiosity for sure

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-PL-PM2000-Stereo-Record-Player-Millennium-Model-In-Excellent-Condition-/153834530694?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

btw, to play a turntable, you will need two specific electronic things to occur:

1. phono signal equalization (RIAA curve)
2. phono signal boost (preamp).

many amps do not include phono inputs/phono equalization/phono signal strength boost, they only accept 'line level' signals (think 1 volt), like tuners, tape decks, .....

1. equalization: boost the lows and cut the highs

a. the lows are cut during recording (keeps grooves smaller, that is how they got more grooves on a platter, more music on a 12" disk. i.e. Long Play, i.e. LP.

b. the highs are boosted during recording.

Eventually RIAA curve was standardized: defined agreed amounts of alteration during recording and corresponding re-equalization during playback.

2. Preamplification. Original tuners and ceramic cartridges produced around 1 volt directly into amps. New stereo MM moving magnet cartridges produce a lower signal, half or often less strong. That weaker signal has to boosted (preamp) up to 1 volt, then sent to your amp designed to receive/boost a 1 volt signal strength enough for your speakers.

3. IF you choose a Moving Coil cartridge, they in turn produce an even weaker signal, and they need a pre-pre amp, to get up to the MM signal strength, then the 'normal' pre-amp boost up to 1 volt. A few High Output Moving Coil cartridges exist, they are 'strong enough or just strong enough' to go into a MM phono input

many new moderately priced TT have an optional/switchable built in phono eq/preamp, so you can use it and go into a 'line' input, or not use it and go to your external phono eq/pre-amp.
You said pretty vintage units. are you limited to Pioneer, or looking at JVC or Denon?

this fully auto JVC looks very nice, I don’t know anything other than that it also fits your budget.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Victor-QL-Y44F-Fully-Automatic-Stereo-Record-Player-W-Original-Box-Excellent/153927280225?hash=item23d6c7e661:g:9~AAAOSwcp9euKoD

quite a few QL-Y5's around (QL is quartz lock, I prefer that)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Victor-QL-Y5-Stereo-Record-Player-Turntable-In-Good-Condition/153886045644?hash=item23d452b5cc:g:gE0AAOSwtzJehq5q

btw, IF 100v unit (some are 120v), you will need a small 100/120 transformer. No need for an expensive one.
I just got two vintage decks going:

1. Mitsubishi, LT-5V, Vertical Linear Tracking,  any 1/2" cartridge, using my Audio Technica MM micro line stylus, AT440ml, it sounds wonderful, both in my main system via McIntosh mx110z preamp phono1, and now in my office via Cambridge Audio DUO phono preamp (MC and/or MM). Belt drive, I need to warm it up to let the speed stabilize, then it holds steady.

2. Technics SL-J33, Horizontal Linear Tracking, limited to P mount, new Audio Technica elliptical. Quartz Direct Drive speed lock is terrific, however, in either system, the sound is in no way involving as the Mitsubishi and my Vintage JVC system's are. I will polish the clear plastic cover and sell it. I could give it to my son, but I don't want him to hear a non-involving TT.

My point is, I suspect your prior TT P mount, and many people's listening to TT/LP was not an involving experience, why so many say no to Analog.

Chackster's point about the new SL-1200MK7 combining superb direct drive with a darn good tonearm essentially ensures success, assuming a combo of cartridge, phono preamp, AND alignment skills. Sell something, stretch your budget? Easier said than done. I don't like the plastic/metal look, or new prices, so it's carefully chosen vintage for me, wood veneer, combined with my ability to fix things mechanically, and handle tonearms/cartridges separately.

Saving money, vintage, so much out there, you are right to ask for help. I asked here and got a great deal of help.

I assure you, the sound of a carefully chosen Vintage TT, and a darn good tonearm, and a darn good cartridge, darn good phono preamp is truly involving and very hard to beat.

Ideologically, I prefer Direct Drive, Quartz Locked speed, however, after letting my old Thorens TD124 idler wheel, and this Mitsubishi belt drive warm up, they both have very nice platters and maintain speed extremely well.