Pin point imaging isn't for everyone


A subject my posts touch on often is whether pin point imaging is desirable, or natural. While thinking about wide-baffle speakers in another thread I came across this quote, courtesy of Troels Graveson’s DIY speaker site. He quotes famous speaker designer Roy Allison:

I had emphasized dispersion in order to re-create as best as I could the performance-hall ambiance. I don’t want to put up with a sweet spot, and I’d rather have a less dramatically precise imaging with a close simulation of what you hear in a concert hall in terms of envelopment. For that, you need reverberant energy broadcast at very wide angles from the loudspeaker, so the bulk of energy has to do multiple reflections before reaching your ear. I think pin-point imaging has to do with synthetically generated music, not acoustic music - except perhaps for a solo instrument or a solo voice, where you might want fairly sharp localization. For envelopment, you need widespread energy generation.


You can read Troel’s entire post here:

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Acapella_WB.htm

This goes, kind of, with my points before, that you can tweak the frequency response of a speaker, and sometimes cables, to get better imaging, but you are going significantly far from neutral to do so. Older Wilson’s were famous, and had a convenient dip around 2.4 kHz.
erik_squires

Showing 6 responses by mijostyn

I am afraid Mr Allison is OTL or as Eric Dolphy would say, "out to lunch."
The information that provides the ambient characteristic of the room/hall the recording was made in is in the recording not in the room you are playing it back in. All your Hi Fi room can do is add distortion. Most experts like Earl Geddes believe the best way to deal with this is to limit the dispersion of the speakers to limit room reflections instead of burying yourself in room treatments. Omni directional speakers are passe. 
Cleeds you have to be kidding me. Can somebody help me out here?
What you just said is my living room is symphony hall. But, then it is Skuller's (a jazz club) and next it is an open amphitheater. It morphs into anything that is on the record label. Wow am I impressed. How the hell did I design a living room like that. Must be a genius. 
You bet Duke. This is a major reason line source dipoles sound the way they do. They minimize reflected energy in a way no other type of speaker can match. Horns can be made to do almost the same thing by controlling their directivity. It seems harder to do with standard dynamic drivers. Their directivity changes continuously with frequency getting narrower as the frequency increases. Dispersion is not uniform and I would think this would cause problems.
Go figure. They are absorption. These are the ones I use. Dirt cheap.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-fwp122-studio-acoustic-foam-wedge-panel-12-x-12-x-2-black-12-pack--260-547
Remember I have Acoustat 2+2s 8 feet tall and twenty inches wide. I put a single vertical row of seven tiles alternating the pattern. They are placed at the deflection point on the wall. The easiest way that I know of to find it is stand right up against the back of the speaker right in the middle. Have someone move a mirror back and forth horizontally across the wall slowly and have them stop when the reflection is centered on the listening position. Mark that point on the wall. That is the deflection point and your tile pattern should be centered there. Height and width are up to you and depends on your speaker's dispersion. 
I first tried double sided carpet tape to stick the tiles on the wall. The tape would not stick to the foam. Next I put a drop of viscous cyanoacrylate glue in each corner and right in the middle, sprayed the wall with accelerator and slapped the tile to the wall. Worked great! I had marked out the wall with pencil and a 4 foot level so I knew where each tile would go. If you ever want to take the tile down the residue will sand right off.

Mike
Sure Duke but I think there is one caveat. You don't want reflected energy off the front wall coming right back at you. I wish I could draw a picture here but essentially you want the reflection to take the long way around the room. So with a properly toed in dipole the rear sound would head towards the front wall angled towards the side wall. Then it would bounce off the side wall and head towards the rear wall to your side around you. This gives you that late reflection from around the room that makes you think the room is bigger. If sound heads toward the center of the front wall and bounces back right at you it really confuses the image just like a blurry photograph. It also diminishes the sensation of a 3rd dimension. I place acoustic tile on the front wall to prevent this reflection towards the center. It only works for frequencies above 250 Hz but that is enough to do the job. This is the only place I use room treatment.