Parasound Halo A21 - Power conditioner?

Not sure if this is the right forum, but I have a Furman Elite 15 pfi power conditioner and I was wondering if I should run it through that or strait to the wall for best results.
The answer is simple. Try it both ways and see if you can hear any difference.
hi, i have the same condtioner and a emotiva xpa-2. emotiva states that their amp has built in treatment that would make running it thru a conditioner redundant. but you can if you wish. i have tried it both ways [using ps audio premier ac on dedicated line] and can hear no difference. presently connected to the furman for convienence. if no experts write i,d possibly call parasound customer service on monday. i hear they are really interested in their customers. good luck
I owned an A21 and also have the schematics. There is a minimal amount of power supply bypassing in the power supply to absorb line tranients, but nowhere near as much as in a good line conditioner like the PS Audio or the Furman (and no MOVs or other SS protection).

Irrespective of any sonic effects, I would always use a line conditioner on an expensive amplifier simply to prolong its life. High voltage line transients can destroy solid state devices in a few nanoseconds, and they can get past the input transformers if they are high enough in frequency.
I recommend against using any kind of line conditioner on an amplifier, including the A 21. If you are concerned about surges and lightning strikes, unplug it when not in use.

Parasound Halo dealer.
Why shouldn't one use a conditioner on amp?
Halo Dealer may just be referring to the known sonic shortcommings of using traditional power conditioners, particularly when it comes to amps which are dynamically dependent on using the most watts, the loss of macrodynamics being the most commonly reported. MOV's as well as other forms of protection are believed to constrain dynamics or sometimes cause frequency shifts within the audio band. Straight into the wall often sounds better, but you should experiment by all means. Just don't expect power conditioning of any kind to give you total, complete isolation from spikes, surges or lightning. About the best you can do there is to reduce the odds of equipment loss somewhat, but always remember there are no matter what the manufacturer guarantees. FWIW, I still remember back when Panamax decided to cash in on their own reputation a decade or so ago and campaigned that they would "guarantee" against equipment loss up to a million dollars. Everyone thought that had to be the bomb and units started flying off the shelves - until everybody started reading the fine print. That was only good IF you could prove the Panamax unit was defective. In other words, if it was functioning properly when you lost your equipment, lightning or no, then they didn't owe you jack. I believe Panamax is still around, but they've maintained a much lower profile ever since...gee, wonder why. But, as far as all that goes, probly your very best best, if you want to leave your gear powered up, as I do, is to go to an electrical supply house (Lowe's or Home Depot won't have them) and get something called a thermal/magnetic breaker...not a thermal breaker, not a magnetic breaker, but a thermal/magnetic. A good quality new one (not reconditioned) may be about 70 or 80 bucks. The problem with ANY surge and spike protecting device or technology is that they are almost certainly too slow in their reaction time (don't believe any numbers claimed here). Just ask any electrician old enough to have grey hair how many times they've seen in their career that a component was saved by a surge/spike protector (regardless of the protector's cost). Of course, they'll say "none". For good measure, then ask how many times they've ever heard of such a thing from any of their colleagues. It seems that more than 99% of the time, the breaker on the A/V circuit trips before any of the surge/spike protectors out there can react. In that case, I say if it's all going to come down to the breaker on the A/V circuit anyway, then you may as well at least have the fastest and best breaker technology going for you, but I think the latest and greatest spike protection sweepstakes is pretty much a waste of time and money. I DO believe in power conditioning to improve the sound, but there you still have to research and kick the tires a bit before you buy - some power-conditioning products are worth the money and some definitely aren't, IMO. I hope somewhere in all this I actually managed to answer your question...(!) I ramble a lot, in case you didn't notice.
I use a PPP with my CJ 350; which draws even more current than the A 21. It sounds better through the PPP; have also used a Quintet and a Shunyata with good results. But there is NO substitute for trying it out yourself!
Re Halo Dealer

I use a Furman PF-Pro R power factor correcting line conditioner (which also has very good surge and transient protection) on my JC1 monoblocks and they have never sounded better. This device has capacitive energy storage which improves (lowers) line impedance from the wall plugs so that audio transients and current surges are enhanced. Also used them with the A21.

And if you think you can anticipate when a nanosecond high voltage spike is going to enter your amps, good luck. It's not always during a lightning storm. This electrical crap can be generated within your home when arcing contacts from your refrigerator, hair dryers, and air conditioners turn on and off.
Well I tried, and almost immediately the sound was better. Is this a pschoacoustic trick of the mind. . . maybe. I'll experiement again tonight and do some A/B'ing. But initial impressions are that strait into the wall did sound better with more detail and better depth. IF it turns out it is better out the wall then I'll look into these theremal/magnetic brekers. Thanks to all that comments. I appreicate it.
I'm an owner of halo a21,and i'd like to make some mods,but i don't have the schematic.Any help please.