Hot and cold don't cause chrome plated surfaces to oxidize. In fact, they don't oxidize. Silver, brass and copper oxidize. What you may be thinking about is the metal underneath the chrome plating, like steel. Lingering moisture on the surface over a period of time can cause rust spots. I think that you are worrying too much.
I can't comment on the cartridge issue.
Let me introduce you to Caig Deoxit which I've used for years in my sound studio and with my sound gear:
Clean all of your contacts as often as needed....or at least once a year.
I wouldn't worry too much about the external cases of equipment. Internally, you can get some corrosion on relays, coil wound pots and such....which you really can't control unless you condition the air.
Yes, use Caig Dexoit to clean the RCA and XLR connectors first and then apply Dexoit Gold to protect it. It made a great improvement on my system. It was nasty to see the cotton swab turned black after you cleaned the connectors.
I've used car wax years back with good results.Use one with the least amount of cleaner.That part is abrasive and might leave a haze,plus be careful with silk screening.I don't know the modern brands.Also,fingerprints!If you look at 60's chrome gear,you will see everyone's fingerprints etched in them.Don't over do the Deoxit.
Roxy, I have seen many Jadis oxidized on both the chrome face and gold knobs, not sure if they are chrome but they sure look like chrome.
Hifitime, thanks for the tips. I am aware of car wax containing abrasive, so pure wax is what I am going after.
I do have a bottle of Caig Gold, guess I also need to invest in Dexoit to clean the contacts first.
I have a spray can of Deoxit and it does help clean the cables. A good copper cleaner like Brasso also does a good job.
Question on something that has bugged me.
After cleaning the connectors, when I apply Pro Gold by using its brush applicator it seems to muffle the sound quality. I always end up wiping it off.
Are you supposed to wipe off the Pro Gold after applying it?
Actually the Caig Gold has a small amount of Deoxit and unless the contact surfaces are heavily corroded should be quite sufficient.
Take your gear in to space. No oxygen, no oxidation. 100% prevention.
My family mostly lived on the gulf Florida. The A/C thing is.. you do not need to run it 'cold' all day.. you really just need to let it work at about 2 to 4 degees below outside temps. This will remove the excess moisture from the air. So even if it is 99F outside.. just lower the temp to 96F or so.. this saves a fortune on A/C yet keeps the place far less humid.
Of course when you're home you can lower it more.. but a good idea when out.
Elizabeth, that's a very clever way of controlling humidity. in Asia, de-humidifier is common and I will have plenty of those running to keep things dry, but wondering if heat alone will oxidize the finish.
Heat alone will not oxidize. Running a de-humidifier is actually an effective way to keep "cool" as well because it helps create an environment so evaporation cools your body. It doesn't need to be set too low. Running de-humidifiers is OK but watch out for furniture. If you buy any hardwood furniture locally, and then you run a de-humidifier, you will run the risk of drying the wood excessively, and causing cracks.
You know a dehumidifier is just an airconditioner with the cold air (considered waste) blowing into the extracted heat? The water collected is the same water as a standard air conditioner collects.. just the cold air in an air conditioner is blown into you home, and the hot air outside. The water from an air conditioner is just considered an accidental byproduct, the cold air from a dehumidifier is the accidental byproduct.
There is a thermostat made by Honeywell that will dehumidify by using both heat and cooling even if from seperate sources. Baseboard heat with ducted A/C or Heat & A/C from ducts.
First it turns on the cooling to dehumidify and lower the tempature by a few degrees of setpoint then turns the heat on to bring the tempature back up, it does this till the desired humidity is reached. Once the humidity is under control the cost should be minimal but dehumidifing is not cheap if the area is not well sealed.
WD 40 everything after deoxidizing.
Clean contacts every month HELLO!!
WD40 is a machine oil[petro-chemical] in a solvent carrier.Better to use a silicone based lube,Belray,Tri-flow etc. etc..Less chance of degrading things it contacts.Not to mention the smell and superior lube qualities,YMMV,Bob
The question was, "How to prevent Oxidation?". I stated to us WD-40 after "Deoxidizing" in order to prevent new "Oxidation from occurring". I have used this method for over 30 years. It will work for the applications he mentioned except for the cartridge, or a reel to reel tape deck.