(One more) Dedicate power line: twist questions, oxygen-free, and code questions.

I wonder if I might ask the following question of this community, as I’m also contemplating running a dedicated line:

I’m contemplating purchasing several runs of single-wire, solid core, 10AWG, for black, white, and green. And then making my own cable. I’m thinking of doing TWO 10AWG runs for each color: first twisting these like colors together: black, white, then likewise two runs of green, then putting each into a fiber mesh before then braiding it all together -- much along the lines of what I’ve seen in high-end power cables. And, separately, I wonder if the above setup would pass code.

I’m also evaluating 99.9 and 99.99% oxygen-free copper, though I don’t know just how important or beneficial this may be. The additional cost of this would be relatively insignificant compared to the bear of a job to run the lines in the first place -- so, once up there (boring multiple holes in the ceiling for access), I want to do the job right.

I had planned on bringing this one (paired-up) set of wires to a box with two outlets, wiring it to one outlet, then jumping it to the other. With the advice to keep digital and analog separate, might I be better served to keep this configuration, but split the feed at the panel end into two breakers, and then split the feed at the outlet end into separate one each -- and still using that one big braid along the way? Or might jumping the two outlets be equal enough?

I would appreciate anyone’s thoughts on either the code issue, the twist strategy, the separation of the lines, or the oxygen-free issue. Thanks in advance!
If you parallel the conductors into one breaker, then it's against code (only wires #1/0 or larger can be paralleled).

My 2 cents: I would use two separate circuits each fed with 10/3 romex. The 10/3 comes already pre-twisted in the jacket, thereby greatly attenuating common mode noise. Simply cut off the bare grounding conductor at each end, put green tape around the exposed red wire (use it as a ground) and secure the black to the hot screw and white to the neutral. Use hospital grade receptacles which have rated clamps because #10's are a bear to loop around a screw -- they can pop out as you try to force the receptacle into the box. The trick here is to pre-bend the wires before attaching them into the receptacle (three bends, one down, then up and then 90 degrees pointing to the outlet).

Thanks, gs. Paralleling, meaning two wires, side by side, screwed into the hot of one breaker? 

As far as keeping analog and digital separate, my understanding is 2 separate outlets, each having it's own separate run back to the panel box on separate breakers. Key word is separate. Jumping one outlet to another or braiding is not separate. As far as wire, I experienced a friend going through many different ones trying to find the best for his dedicated lines. He finally settled on the cry'od Romex from VH Audio (no affiliation), and it definitely sounded the best.

I agree totally with gs5556 and tls49.
Listen to those two suggestions, perhaps others in the field (electrions etc) will chime in.

Yes. Joining two smaller wires to make a bigger wire. Reason it’s against code is if the connection comes loose, the load is then carried by one wire.

Also, you should keep your insurance company in mind if you make your own feeder cables. All the stuff for sale at the box stores and supply houses are rated for their intended service. A custom feeder can be the basis for denying a claim to fire or equipment damage.