Odyssey Stratos or Krell 400Xi for Usher 6381's

The odyssey extreme stereo, or the Dual Mono would be good... They don't really have more power per watt I believe but they have higher capacitance and the Amperage out goes way up... Current controls the speakers so I would guess this is a good way to get super high current. I think they hit something like 120 amps per channel, so if you go look at most of your amps out there they are normally only somewhere between 20 amps to maybe 50 amps per channel, I know the odysseys lay it down and are not really equaled in this realm, especially for the money.

By the way I noticed in another thread of yours with some concerns about overheating, the Stratos series does not even break room Temp.. Its the coldest lowest noise(no hum) amp I have ever encountered with high power and current like this. you could be stunned when touching it that it never seems to turn on.... Also a lot of the times odyssey recommends leaving them on 24/7 they pull no power and create no heat in my experience.. maybe a couple bucks a month on the power bill but I never noticed it one way or the other with them on playing all the time or not used at all...I had Krell, Classe', Forte, Ps audio, Threshold, Muse, Coda, Bryston and probably a couple more I can't think of that I have had... All ran pretty hot, and a couple RED hot after being on for a couple hours when Driven or sitting at idol.. This just does not happen no matter what I do to the odysseys for 24 hours plus.. very efficient solid amps with better part quality than any for the most part that I owned.

Yeah the Dual mono board adds some heat but nothing significant.. The stratos and the extreme are not the same as the Dual mono's which are 2 Amps in one chassis so that is the reason.. sharing 2 amps on one heatsink vs. one amp on one pair of heatsinks.. I can say the Khartago from odyssey runs warm, its the same amp, but in a smaller chassis with less heatsink..

Well, depending how good you are with stuff, there is 4 bolts holding the face on.. Yes you could get LED's, but you need to cut the wire add some quick connects and put in new lights, I would not de-solder the wire from the board it is really thick and solid solder very hard to melt in this case.. I have just installed quick connects myself, cause I had to change a pair of LEDs myself due to I have 2 extremes and one was shipped with the old blue ones and the new one has a different blue.. But I got the correct LEDs from klaus and I have no idea where or what you would need to buy if you wanted red or yellow or something, so you will need to talk to them if all can be used, I would assume it is a pretty basic same type power draw LED that any others would be.. If you know a little about quality and how to pay attention to details taking apart the front and can put it back as stock, which for me is easy then the answer is yes you can do it.. Nothing very dangerous you can screw up on the front panel at all.

Good thing is the power switch is mounted on the back of the unit anyway so nothing really intricate to mess with.. However be careful of the glass when you take out the screws for the LED mount tabs it will come out and can shift around when loose, so you want the light to not shine out past the seal either or it will look funny, so make sure it is re-centered and sealed back to the aluminum well.