was able to find a schematic of the cross-overs and the part selections are very difficult to repeat with off the shelf values. I will most likely leave them alone.
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'Odd' capacitor values are probably caps in parallel which add to the correct value.
Inductors? Several online calculators if you are willing to wind your own!
Also, many inductor makers will 'dewind' the next higher value to whatever you require.
My panels, for example, use a 3.5mh which is not a standard value. The next value up is a 3.7 or 3.8mh.
I am retarded when it comes to this stuff. I usually have a tech who helps me but in this specific case he bowed out. He mentioned the combining of values but it seemed to overwhelm him so I shut up and left it alone.
I also have had time to listen and acclimate to the 3.3s and am thrilled with them in their current state. Maybe I would make a good thing worse if I were to futz with them?
They are great all-rounders but the bass is magnificent. As for the rough highs I replaced the tweeters with superior Seas Excel t25cf001's and they made the top end softer and more life-like to my ears. Electronically they are pretty close to a drop in so I didn't change the XO but a little Dremel tool work was needed and the flange overlaps a little but still looks good. I like them a lot better now. You could also try the Seas H1189 as it fits the recess (you still have to Dremel for the wire connector on one side) and the specs are even closer to the original, it too is an excellent tweeter and cheaper at about $50 vs. $120 EA. I like the Excel a bit better though but each has strong points. Yes, I tried both of them. Some will like the H1189 more I'm sure. Especially after a few days break in.