I was able to purchase woofers for a pair of 1.1s two years ago directly from Now Hear This in Benicia CA.
I saw these on ebay but as old as these are buying used is the last option i want to go .One cabinet speakers are ok the other the magnets pulled away and centering up would be ok but they are ripped away from screws i think at one time it was dropped hard.I didn't pay much for them they came with a onyko 7.1 reciever i bought.My question is will these new ones i have coming work they fall in line with wattage and hz and db range but they call them mid base.I contacted the Nht link you put up Tuesday and no response.Thanks for taking time these were first yr they made these towers and upgrading speakers should be better than originals.
I just had a similar experience as you ... major distortion and DC slipped through my amp and froze one of my NHT 3.3's 12 inch woofers by overheating it ... no one had a OEM replacement and like your experience the one that is electrically correct required cabinets modifications which was out of the question
You should contact Bill LeGall at Miller sound in PA. and get a quote on rebuilding your drivers ... not sure how many need servicing but he's a straight shooter and will give you the best advise on if it is feasible
My OEM 1259 NHT 12 inch woofer was a very expensive rebuild in his words at $125 plus $30 return shipping ... I was fortunate enough to find a replacement pair of MAD1259 (direct replacement upgrade made by Fosgate ) new in the box for $375 including shipping
Give Bill a call ... he's very responsive and will give you your best optionEnter your text ...
Thanks for info if ones i have coming aren't compatible i may call him.The other tower speakers are fine but because i bought new replacements i went ahead and bought 4 to replace all.Thats where i screwed up the ebay store i bought from said they should work but after getting more info i'm not sure and told ebay quy he pretty much said oh well no returns.My bad right so i tried getting more info on new ones and found same speakers elsewhere for 80.00 less than i paid for 4.Specs is where i need help oems are 35hz-25khz @86db.6.5 30 -200 wts @4 ohms.New ones are 65hz-3600hz.Fs 67hz spl 96db 1/w 1/m.vas0.0z cu.ft.Qms 3.72 qes 0.93 qts0.74.20 oz.magnet.A lot of info on newer not much on originals.If i'm stuck with new ones i will rebuild only because i like the enclosures they are made 100 times better than components they used inside.Any help on compatibility is scarce thats why i came here for the real info from people that have a passion and knowledge.
Hi ... let me see if I can help ... the 35hz to 25Khz @86db is the rating for the entire speaker .. the entire speaker requires a minimum 30w to be driven and can handle up to 200w ... it's average impedance is 4 ohm but that will fluctuate .. so it only represents the average impedance for the entire speaker
The 35hz is the lowest the speaker will reach down to but is a specification for the entire speaker which is rated at the speaker's -3db point
Speakers are usually rated at their -3db point because the room typically adds 3db of gain so with that speaker being rated at -3db @ 35hzs they are adding in the room gain and the measured response of the entire speaker is flat theoretically when you take that into account for the extra 3db the room boost at the frequency added down in that region
Again those specs are the rating for the entire speaker
The New driver are 65hz-3600hz Fs 67hz spl 96db 1/w 1/m. means that the new woofers only have a range of 65hz to 3600hz as compared to the entire speaker 's rating of 35hz to 25Khz and the 67hz FS means that the speaker is flat to 67hz in free space without the enclosure ... if that specification was to taken at the -3db point to compensate for the room gain in the cabinet it would probably be much closer to the OEM original driver ... the 96db @ 1w @1m is irrelevant unless it is in the cabinet and being controlled by the crossover ... the rest of those spec have to do with the cabinet size required and other parameters if you are designing a speaker form scratch
I think your replacement speakers will be very close to the original OEM drivers but you should replace all 4 drivers even though the two in the other cabinets are fine
Replacing all 4 old drivers with the new drivers assures you of matching sets in both speakers ... so I think the new speakers are very close and should be a close match for the original drivers ... just replace all 4 drivers in both speaker at the same time
Glad to see you understood my explanation of the difference between the speaker's total response of 35hz to 25Khz and the new drivers response of 67hz to 3600hz ... these new drivers are most likely a direct replacement for the older NHT OEM woofers and should work fine as long as you replace all 4 .. which I see you are
The rest of those specs are really meant for someone trying to design speaker from scratch and wanting to use those drivers ... that tells them what the box size and configuration should be ... but is irrelevant to you as they are a direct replacement for yours
Just go slow and be careful when making the swap .. do one speaker at a time removing it and laying it in front of the speaker box ... you need to note which side on the old speaker the black wire goes to and which side the other red or white wire goes to so lay the new one next to the old one in the same orientation so you don't mix up the connection ... when reinstalling snug them up slowly and progressively .. like changing a tire on a car go in a star pattern and gently tighten up progressively
Chances are the new drivers may be an improvement over the OEM units ... good luckEnter your text ...