Next Upgrade for VPI Scoutmaster TT

My current analog setup consists of the following configuration:

VPI Scoutmaster TT
VPI SSM carbon-infused black Acrylic Platter
VPI JMW-9 Signature tonearm
VPI SDS Power Supply
VPI Center Weight
VPI Periphery Ring
Dynavector DV-20X Low MC Cartridge
Dynavector P-75 MK-II Phono Stage

I listen mostly to Jazz and Classical music and I'm very pleased with the overall sound of my analog setup.

If this was your analog setup, what would you upgrade for under $2000 US?
I'd upgrade the tonearm to the JMW-10.5i. Your setup is identical to mine. The only difference is I'm using the HR-X Minifeet and a Ray Samuels Audio Nighthawk phono preamp. My next upgrade will be to the 10.5i arm which is $1000 with the trade-in of the JMW-9 Signature.
I am a VPI and Dynavector dealer and have used a standard Scoutmaster and the 75 2 phono stage. The first thing I would do is to change the standard feet for Star Sound solid brass ones [1/4 20 thread]. This tightens up the bass and improves transient response in general. The standard aluminum feet with a rubber washer have a definite effect on the sound, I have tried them on a Scout, Scoutmaster and Aries extended and they improved all of them. My Aries came with the Mini TNT feet and I sold them after I tried these. I am a dealer for them but suggest you get them direct from the web site. Be persistent as they are essentially a one man company. The 75 is a great phono stage for the money, you can do better within your budget but it takes carful shopping. I got a Musical Fidelity Kw phono stage used for under $1400 and it is a considerable upgrade. But they are quite rare, I haven't seen one since. The Mini Basis phono stage shows up used for around $1000, I am currently using the big one and it is a great phono stage, according to one review the smaller one offers 90% of its performance. You don't say what ICs you are using on the phono. Go slow as you already have a very good set up but try the feet first, you will be surprised at the difference.
Hi Stanwal, which Star Sound solid brass feet would you recommend in the 1/4-20 thread size?

Threaded Audio Points:
If you do not have a Mint LP protractor I'd suggest that to get the most out of your cartridge. However, if you are going to upgrade your arm soon wait as you'll need a different Mint.

I like the feet from TTWeights, but they are spendy.
Either the 1.5" or 2" will work. I have used the 1.5 most of the time. Another thing I forgot to mention was I took the rubber feet off the VPI motor and put 3 .2 Audio Points under it instead. I have used products from TTWeights and been happy with them but have not tried the feet.
Hi Stanwal,

With regards to placing cone feet underneath the VPI motor, it seems logic would suggest not to transmit the vibrations of the motor to the surface it sits on for fear that the vibrations would then travel over to the table more easily. Seems like squishy feet would work better. Have you experimented with squishy feet as well as cones under the motor - thanks for the responses.
Another good thing for under the motor is a mouse pad.
Yes, I tried some small sorbothane discs under the motor, they were better than the standard feet but I liked the points better. It may well depend on the turntable stand, I use a Star Sound rack and everything is designed to transfer any vibrations out of the system as quickly as possible. I also use a TNT stand with a maple cutting board sitting on it resting on either cones or FIM rollers. My thoughts on this run this way, using the points transfers the motor vibrations to the stand, either of which is quite rigid and massive, where they should have little effect. Putting a soft object under the motor prevents its vibrations from reaching the base but keeps them in the motor where they are transferred by the belt to the platter,where they are more likely to interfere with playback. I prefer the former but , as they say, milage may differ.
Stanwal, I have been considering the .2 Audiopoints for a TNT motor & flywheel. Do the .2s have an adhesive back or a threaded stud? Do you use them with the cup bases, and if so, do you hear improvement with the bases?

A soft pad underneath an outboard motor may solve some problems while causing others. Any excessive compliance that allows the pulley to vibrate will alter belt geometry and adversely affect transient speed stability.
I just finished implementing DIY stillpoints on the TNT motor. This is an improvement over the stock rubber feet. Each footer is a pyramid of five 1/4" ball bearings captured by the spring steel petals of a 5/8" chrome hole plug from Lowes. The vacated stud holes in the motor case locate each of four ball points. About $8 for the set.
Are these the ones you're referring to?:
For about a $1000 i would put that rig under a Symnposium Ultra isolation stand. It makes a huge discernable different.