If you want to get any real benefit out of biamping, you really need to use an active crossover, imo.
- 16 posts total
- 16 posts total
I agree on what cleeds said. Also, like joe said, your different amplifiers will likely have different gain, which requires you to have some sort of ability to detune the level of one amplifier (either using a passive preamp or active crossover, such as Bryston 10B or something similar). Or just use exact same amps for high/low.
Is it even worth it ? or am I headed down a rabbit hole from hell. I no longer have "UNLIMITED" audio bucks... Given my system if you had a couple grand to spend what would you do?
Room is 20ft x 15ft x 8ft high with one opening 7ft x 7 to the rest of the pad. And not acoustically treated...
Options on my mind is wait for a "Super AMP"... aka pure class A Krell FPB, Pass Labs, Plinius 250 or somthing else. Im too lazy to deal with tubes plus Id go "OCD" at all times worried that one of the tubes were not pulling their weight and that would pull me away from the music lover side of me.. From my exp if ur gonna run SS pure class A is the way to go. But the Aragon 8008 BB is pretty darn good. Other options are upgrade to the PS Audio Direct Wave not sure if that gonna be an upgrade. Ive now gone digital only and use my laptop with usb into the first through a Schitt Eitr that reclocks upsamples tp 192 and then and another digital lens in the PS Ausio Direct Stream. Or change out speakers... yes I know huge can of worms but Maggies 3.6 or 20's were always amazing to me but IMO think the Dunlay SC3's are gonna be tough to beat with the HSU ULS 15's all sealed system. And again only gotta couple grand to spend... If I wait long enough I could get 6 or 8k.
Thanks guys for chiming in and now Im terrified of Bi amping and thats out. I really mean that If I have to buy an outbord Xover Im out. I like the less is more approach.