Need wiring diagram for Neutrix connector to REL T7 sub

I need longer run of cable to my REL sub and foolishly disconnected the 3 wires to the Neutrix plug, which has 4 binding posts, so I am unclear which conductors attaches where?  Can anybody help me out?
1+, 2+, 1-. The plus Neutrik from the positive amp posts, the negative from one of the negative posts. There ya go.

Hey Wolf,
Thanks for chiming it.  I got a diagram from Neutrik which helped me determine which was 1+, 2+, and 1-.... there are no markings on the plug to identify which was which.  So, I got it wired up properly and am loving the addition of the sub with my Spatial Audio M4's.  Thanks again for helping a fellow out. Cheers, Mark
The markings on all my Speakon plugs are really tiny, but there…tiny…
You have better eyes than me, brother.  The Neutrick diagram gave me the correct orientation.  Take care. 
BTW, you have some very rational posts on the thread about fuse directionality.  I work with several PhD EE's and physicists and I have put this whole fuse business to them and all of them, to a man, thought I had rocks in my head for even entertaining such a fool notion.  I have found some decent improvements in my rig with modest Morrow and Grover Huffman IC's, but nothing with fuses, Shakti blocks, Herbie's dots, or the rest of the silly tweaks out there. Tube rolling for damn sure creates audible diifferences.  Audiophiles gotta be among the most gullible consumers in the market, easily guilted into buying into the purposed pablum being hawked, often at outrageous prices.  GK is operating in a dimension of thinking that defies any logic.   Anyhow, I appreciate your posts for helping our audio friends think more rationally about these silly tweaks.  Whitestix 

I think the fuse thread is dominated by some who have a weird agenda to promote these things, and it comes off really unsavory…I don't mind if people tweak away with whatever they think works, but if I smell even a whiff of hard sell for something questionable like a friggin' fuse that costs 100 hard earned bucks when worth about $6.72, it looks like a commercial swine operation…the amp designers and serious engineers I know don't buy into audio mysticism either and that says it all for me.