need new rack with isolation in mind


I have an old CWD twin which holds 6 components and my 50" Pioneer plasma on top. I am partial to a two component wide setup 3 vetically with a full shelf on top.

I was looking for something with good isolation that is functionable and asthetically pleasing

I'd love a SRA CRAZ 8 but I can't afford over $7k

Would a good option to order a Salamander Synergy twin 30 rack which is asthetically pleasing and have Neuance shelfs placed in it? Any other options I should look at?

Thanks
Tom
128x128audiotomb
If you place three herbiesaudiolab.com Big Fat Black Dots, or Tenderfeet, beneath each component (or, four for certain undersurface configurations) then for very little effort and money you can enjoy a significant upgrade. They cost less than $9 each.
Gives you time to decide how to spend the Big Bucks.
Depending upon taste, these may be all you need to significantly enhance the viewing and listening experience.
Plus, these can work well on any new flat surfaces you have in your future.
Post removed 
Tom.

I know this doesn't address your question, but I recently tweaked my Pioneer 50" plasma with a DIY isolation stand made from 1 inch cast acrylic and 8 Vibrapods. All I can say is WOW!!! The total cost was about $100 and well worth the bucks. Huge gains in HDTV like video quality and depth. Under the isolation stand I use a Schroer and Schroer Focus 72 with the 5/8" glass shelves.

Alan
Post removed 
has anyone tried these steve blinn designs?
they seem very resonably priced

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accsrack&1170448756

the extra wide 4 shelf version might fit my needs systemwise

would the maple resolate or have deadening characteristics?
thanks
Tom
Tvad, I guess you'll just have to read through Herbie's "FAQ's" before suggesting a Battle of the Squishie's, or is it squashies, and may the best value win :>)
Audiotomb, I checked out your system, and see we "share" A fondness for the EVS Millennium DAC II, and the classic Nak's.
I use maple slabs as part of a complete Mapleshaderecords.com approach to amplifier support, and Pierre Spey recommends spiking into the wood, among other optimizing ideas.
To my ears there is an audible signature to any base, whether it is stone, or wood. And, the mechanical construction, or chemical composition of any footer between the component and the base adds an audible effect in a high resolution system. So, a lot of potential for tuning, or is it a lot of potential for frustration, in getting exactly the sound you want?
That's why I mentioned starting with an inexpensive, generally accepted, relatively neutral, yet optimizing, footer choice to get you started.
Getting back to your question: each maple base company has its own preferred stand design approach as illustrated in their advertisements on Audiogon, and on their websites. They all seem to please their purchasers.
Buying a beautifully crafted unit based on the manufacturer already doing the trial and error work for you is certainly one easy approach. I may be in the minority in having many different support variations in different systems, but I tend to stay with my classic components, and vary the tweaks.
How much CAN you spend?To me nothing beats heavy iron and for speaker stands and racks the Sound Anchors are excellent.maybe not as pretty as Billy Bags but not as expensive.Others I won' mention are as expensive and just don't offer the base you want especially with wood floors.But even without you can get a havey metal rack (there are others that have points isolating each shelf module and legs like (many in fact).but in either case just give yourself space you'll need and then exp[eriment with vibrapods,Panda Thumbs,Ayre Myrtle wood ect on the cheaper end then move up to more expensive set isolation (like Stillpoints) each shelf depending on the somponent and it sensitivity.If a turnatable were involved I'd got with a wall mount.The only thing I am not sold on rollerblocks given what some cost.The last and most problematic piece is the TV. since you want stability a wood platform again with experimention can really pay off.More threads are availible on this issue than just about anything else.But my main point is start with a heavy rigid framework and kill vibes from there.You can hace fun and frutrtration (kind of like Golf) but the pay off can be tremendous.Look at www.soundanchor.com and if you see soemthing you like call up Bob Warzalla.he know more about stands,isolation and general Hifi abnout as well as anybody in the buiness.
Chazz
listener 57 - yes the EVS Millenium II, I was sorry to see Ric discontinue this. I have an Audio Aero Prima as well.

THose maple racks on Audiogon look interesting.

I'm having a hard time finding anything commercially that looks good and isolates for reasonable money
I've been searching all over audiogon, audioasylum, etc for decent furniture - few reasonably priced things seem to fit the bill

My setup involves a 50" Pioneer plasma for the top shelf (french doors prohibit wall mount in that room) currently on an old cwd lowboy

my nottingham and ar ph2 are on a tact wall mount and I need space for at least 6 shelves in the rack setup. So a longer top fpr the plasma setup is preferrable

I am coming to the conclusion that either I dip my feet in with a salamander synergy twin 30 and upgrade with isolation shelving $2k +

go with solidsteel h6 and h6 partner (not that visually pleasing but reasonable cost and may be effective enough
http://www.solidsteel.it/pag/e/H6.html

get a modded adona setup $3k

try an sba (here on audiogon) three shelf long maple $1.7k

or actually justify big $$$ buying a SRA Craz 8

not sure my components are up to it
or that I would be better served with an upgrade in the amp
and phono cartridge, maybe even a loricraft record cleaner
that's a lot of money for the audio rack compared to my modest system

I just recently treated myself and bought Salk HT3 speakers that will arrive in a few weeks, and the company I worked for gave me a very sizable bonus this year so I'm tempted to indulge just a little more

I'm frugal by audiophile standards and frankly I don't know how some of you do this on the expensive end

thanks

Tom
Take a look at the Finite Elemente (Pagode) racks a little pricey but top notch!
Leaning towards the salamander with neuance shelves for amp, pre and cd. Not too pricey, good bang for the buck and will blend in with the room. I notice Neuance doesn't list Salamander as a recommended rack but they do make direct replacement shelves for the rack.

Is it better to get the direct replacement shelves or place a Neuance on a Salamander stock shelf?

Thanks

Tom
I would get Neuance Shelves with identical dimensions of the Salamander shelves so you can play around with them.
Either replace the Salamnader shelf or put the Neunace shelf on top of the Stock Salamander shelf.

One thing I did instead was replacing the stock Salamander feet on my Twin 20 rack.

I got custom made threaded spikes that are 2 inches tall. This really improved my sound. Better imaging, focus & soundstage.

I dont have Neuance shelves but I am in the process of tweaking with spikes/cones under my components on my stock Salamander shelves.
Grand Prix Audio now makes a double-wide rack for AV systems; though I've not "heard" that one, I can give the highest recommendation to the Monaco Modular line for audio use.
if you don't need adjustable, then SolidSteel makes some great component tables with isolation cones under each shelf. Very good vibration control.

Musidirect.com carries SolidSteel and so does cable company.
I received one of the extra-wide racks from Steve Blinn Designs about a month ago. It is gorgeous - even nicer in person than the pictures. I was considering the Finite Elements Pagode, but, decided this was at least as nice and effective at a fraction of the price.
Hel, how mechanically stable is your BLINN rack with maple shelves. And does any one know how Blinn's stability/isolation compares to ADONA racks with granite shelves?