My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?


So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham
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Well, just to add to the group misery, one of my F110v1 just up and died. Being in Canada, the shipping and whole border thing (customs were a bear to deal with last time) has me wondering if I should just buy a cheap and powerful class D amp like crown and just be done with it. JL drivers are great but their Chi-fi alibaba plate amps are crap.
Singingtheblues, I wouldn’t hold my breath, however JL has obviously owned up to the issue somewhat by offering their quite reasonable $300 flat rate fix for out of warranty repairs. My guess is that’s about what their cost is on those plate amps from China. I bet they replace 100 amps for every blown driver or control panel section.
I’d say they’re acting dishonestly & risk damaging their brand beyond repair.

When both my e-sub112 failed, yes they repaired them FOC, but they completely ignored repeated requests for information.    I just want to know that the replacement amp plates aren’t the same crap as the original ones?   Can I rely on them to last or should I get rid now?   Every time I ask I get no reply.

A year ago I was singing the praises of JL Audio Subs.  I would have recommended them to anyone.   Now I wouldn’t touch them with a barge pole & would warn others to stay clear.