My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?


So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham
@contuzzi

Yep I can confirm that, I have 3 fathoms that needed amp replacements. They are the least durable subs I’ve ever owned. Everytime they died was with no music playing, the subs were just on and "pop" and the amp died. Plenty of mass market cheap subs out there in the market that have better reliability than JL.
Got my F113 fixed for the 2nd time. No issues since, as I have NOT left it on in standby mode, as I believe the standby power supply is the root of the problem.
JL drivers quite good.  Attaching so so plate amps to a vibtarating box, not so smart.   

I would recommend buying a higher quality amp not attached to the vibrating box.
Just had mine give up the ghost today. Power outage happened while we were out so can’t confirm there was any audible signature to the failure but it was plugged into a surge protector.

Contacting JL tomorrow to determine next steps.
I've owned JL Audio fathom subs for some time.  My fathom 113 v1
did have a failure after a power outage.    Sub was repaired by JL Audio
but they recommended using a surge protector to avoid any chance
of amp failure.  Currently I own 2 fathom 212 v1 subs each with
a SurgeX SA-20 surge protector.  The subs have worked flawlessly
for 8 years and counting.  Surge X units highly recommended!