Micro Seiki RX 5000

Slide 2 towels under the platter all the way to the center, one from each side. Lift the platter with towels carefully.

Wow, really, really, nice gift.

The RX-5000 and RX-8000 are, arguably, two of the best turntables ever made. And, very expensive.

In the platter are 2 holes for screws. Insert them, connect them to something like a grip and then you can lift the platter in 1 move.

Hsindo,

Thanks for your help but I still can't get it off.

Thamasheising,

It's been untouched for 15 years so the platter really fits to the housing. I already tried screws handle, but the whole units lifted!!

Should I renew the platter with sort of meatal polish? any ideas?

I suggest you pose the question to (I believe) www.Goodsoundclub.com If that doesn't work, Google "Romy the Cat". I am sure they can give you the exact answer you need.

First unscrew the spindle.

Rwwear,

How to unscrew the spindle?

I believe this is a sealed oil bearing but I may be mistaken. Why do you think it needs service. If this has a pump and the platter wouldn't turn, it is probably a RX5000fv. If so do not try to turn the platter without the pump on and floating the platter.

Or maybe the pump is missing. If it will not turn or has a FV designation, don't force it!

The spindle should unscrew by hand. It may be frozen from age. Take it off without burring or scratching by using a cloth and light plier work. Lube it when putting back on.

I concur with Elizabeth but If I were you, I'd take the whole thing to a high end turntable specialist to bring back to full glory. I've been looking for one of these for a while. Good luck.

If it is an air bearing platter, it will not rotate without the pump without damage. If it is an air bearing platter, the spindle should unscrew with only finger pressure. Look here. http://www.vinylengine.com/library/micro-seiki/rx-5000.shtml
And here.
www.my-micro.de/micro_home_gb.htm

Here's a quote from the manual at Vinyl Engine:

The bearing side which comes into contact with the shaft front employs a special alloy bearing, and new materials are used for an extremely smooth rotation while the lead molecules in the oil film are extracted uniformly as the shaft rotates. The result is a quantum improvement in the signal-to-noise ratio. A ceramic ball, which is harder than the metal and extremely wear-proof, is used at the end of the shaft and the whole design makes for superior mechanical strength and precision as the fulcrum. An oil bath system is featured between the shaft and bearing and since this is full with oil, there is no fear that the oil will run out.

I could be wrong, but after you remove the platter, I doubt you'll be able to take apart the shaft housing without special tools. See the picture in the manual. It looks sealed. If you want reassurance that everything is working well, take it to a professional as Rloggie suggests. Or contact Audiogon members who have this table and ask how (or if) the oil needs to be changed.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vaslt&1168603113
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vdone&1148436151
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vdone&1118570565
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vdone&1115433273
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1029432809

I'd trust Rauliruegas to give you an excellent answer.

Don't worry, that one is without air bearing. I think, those have the "SX ...." model name

I found some pics

RX5000

RX5000 Bearing 1

RX5000 Bearing 2

RX5000 Bearing 3

you never said why you needed to clean and oil? If the table is running well and sounds it then like Elizabeth said PLEASE LEAVE IT ALONE: This is a beautiful table and if I am right and you screw up and damage, it's going to cost a pretty penny because parts are not easy to come by.

Ritchiepok:

First, what size of screw did you find that fits those 2 holes on the platter? I took my platter to a hardware store once but did not find any available screws that fit.

If you tried to lift the platter with inserted screws and the base came up with it, it likely means that there is corrosion in the copper center hole that made it stick to the spindle. See if some WD-40 around the spindle can loosen it. On the RX-5000, there is nothing holding the platter to the base other than gravity. I had similar problem with my other DDX-1000. For years the platter refuses to be separated from the base until I gave it a bit brute force after other owners told me that the platter separated easily on their units.

On the other hand, there is nothing to lubricate in the bearing. It is a sealed unit and I do not recommend you open it up. You should try to get the platter loose however just so that the weight is more manageable if you need to relocate it.

Lastly, remember to connect a ground wire to the bottom of the base before you set up the rest. It will prevent static charge being transferred to the phono stage.

Many thanks to your helps.

I think is one is not the air bearing I can't see any privided hole for air line underneath, and the platter and bearing spin OK.

Hsindo, I don't know the size of the screw, it's just metric ones.

The unit came with Thorens mat but I removed it and it now looks disgusting like this, so I really need to split them to clean to aviod backache.

Can anyone also tell me how to remove that 15 years double sided adhesive tape, particularly on Micro platter?

http://img61.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0317pu5.jpg
http://img356.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0018bt4.jpg

Can anyone also tell me how to remove that 15 years double sided adhesive tape, particularly on Micro platter?

Goo Gone(denatured alchohol) if this doesn't work mineral spirits. Lacquer thinner can be used but be careful of any surrounding finish.

You could try WD 40 and let it sit there till everything softens and hopefully just wipe off with a paper towel. It should be safe and non corrosive.

Goo Gone will work much better than WD-40.

This is an excellent TT -- but the screw suggestion is likely to mar the gun-metal of the platter -- this is a pressure fit only. The trick is to heat the platter. Put a towel on the platter an pour boiling hot water on the towel. It should (maybe with WD-40) lift right off.

A note on the bearing -- Micro-Seiki used lead (Pb) "powder" in their oil -- it is very toxic, and should be handled with care. Before you go through the exercise of removing the oil and changing it, you should listen to bearing housing base with a stethoscope -- if the bearing moves freely,and is not noisy, just use it as is. Otherwise you will need to replicate the same original treatment - and use powdered lead (Pb) [available here - www.testbourne.com/materials/metals-details/3523-640/Lead-powder/ ] in your replacement oil. This is due to the spacing in the bearing, and I am not sure if graphite powder would be a good substitute, as graphite might etch or corrode the stainless steel -- whatever you do, use a "high molecular weight" oil -- or an impregnated one.

These are best driven with an aramid (Kevlar) string -- you can buy a 600yd spool at Edmund Scientific [scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3034863]

Enjoy -- I would also invest in this record weight -- TRITIUM POLISHED BRASS COPPER RECORD Clamp -- look on ebay fo it -- it REALLY makes a huge difference.

cfp
www.resfreq.com

You can polish it with any copper cleaner -- avoid anything too abrasive.

cfp
www.resfreq.com

Apparently there was a handle that one could use - see this link:

Micro-Seiki RX-5000 Platter Pull Handle

resfreq.com

This is quite old but I just acquired one from an old customer who passed away. I'm posting in case, like me, anyone else new has the issue and there is some misinformation here.  You do insert two screws into the holes on the platter.  They are M3 and you should be able to do it with 4" or longer.  You can fashion handles or use vise grips to pull them up.  When they screw all the way down they hit the steel plinth - there's nothing there to damage.  Mine would lift about 1/8" and then stop.  I worked three wooden shims around the edges and with a friend would slowly work them in as we pulled up.  This applied even pressure.  At about another 1'8" up it released.  The spindle remains in the bearing shaft in the table.  It is sealed and basically inaccessible.  Mine is in great shape and sounds terrific.  

If the OP has been tugging on his platter for the 14 years since he posted, he ought to be quite muscular by now or else ridden with stress fractures.