Michigan Maple Block Query

I am considering a Michigan Maple Block AJA02015 audio platform/cutting board, 18" x 18" x 3 1/2", to replace a shelf in my audio rack for supporting a DAC. The thickness also ideally raises the height of the DAC in the rack. My concern is that it is unsealed maple. Preferably, I would like it black or, minimally, sealed in some way, because the shade of the maple is something I can live with. I am looking for suggestions regarding this. Should I be concerned if left unsealed for this application or not? Thanks in advance.
Mine has worked fine for 6 months or so and I am leaving it untreated,. Why not use a sealant or coating if you are worried.
If you are in a humid cllimate add some kind of oil. If you really want a Black finish I would use a jacobean or ebony oil.
The block you're looking at is made from end grain blocks, so a block that thick isn't going to warp at all. Maple is dense & it's difficult to stain evenly. It's notorious for being hard to finish. I'd doubt an ebony oil would give satisfactory results. I've spent quite a bit of time trying various translucent black finishes over tiger maple and had the greatest success by shooting alcohol based dye finishes with a spray gun. It's possible that a piece that small could be finished semi-ok with a gel based black stain.
Photon is right. I didn't realize it was endgrain. I would just seal it with tungoil and leave it natural. Or better yet a good coat of wax will yeild fast easy results.
there is such a thing as stain conditioner made to help difficult woods such as maple. Essentially it is the same substance as the carrier used in stain, but clear. It keeps the end grain pores from absorbing the stain too readily. Otherwise Photon46 is correct, spray dyes are what is used in production environments.
Before you do anything, you might want to look at the Fine Woodworking website for additional advice. All of the above advice indicates there's a long steep learning curve to finishing maple, especially hard maple. Even if you use what's referred to as a Sanding Sealer to even out the effects of stain, with end grain you still might end up with a checker board effect. If you want black, I've found that it's best to first use a black dye that's made by Behlen Solor Lux, and then spray coat it with a semi or gloss spray.
This is an old thread, but because it led me to try this  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040E0Q1U/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_6  I am responding to it. I installed this block on top of what are probably  mapleshade isoblocks (I've had them for years; forgot their source). The result is: tighter bas, more detail, better delineation of instruments--all effects plausibly tied to reduce vibrations. The a/b was brief--too much hassle to repeat it, but I am happy. TT is a clearaudio champion.
I have used them and they were good. Also used some generic cutting board ones. All were better than nothing. Again a million opinions. I have had very good luck with MIGs metal vibration absorbers. Their downside is they can slide. Spell check out again.