MF A3 speaker connectors: What were they thinking?


I'm getting a little frustrated with my Musical Fidelity A3 power amp. The speaker connectors seem to be designed for no known cable termination. What are other people doing with these connectors?

The connector shafts are threaded, about 1/2" in diameter. There is a large diameter cap nut which screws down on the cable termination. The threaded shaft has a large vertical hole in it, about 1/4", which is gradually covered by the nut as the nut is screwed down.

It seems like these connectors were designed for gargantuan spades like I've never seen or else for ... gasp ... bare wire!

I've tried putting one tang of a normal spade connector in the hole and tightening. This seems to provide a less than ideal connection and has to put weird stresses on the tang.

I've also tried putting a banana plug in the hole and tightening. Banana plugs are inherently springy and I feel bad tightening down on one. Also, it has to be a long banana plug so the the large cap nut tightens on the plug shaft and not on the larger base of the banana plug. Also, the vertical hole means that the banana must be pointing straight down so that the wire exits vertically up and the weight of the wire hangs awkwardly on the terminator.

This is a popular amp. Any ideas? What am I missing?
pmi_guy

Showing 2 responses by socrates

Just putting one spade through the hole is a very poor connection, very very poor actually as the hole is not flush and only a hairs breadth of contact is made. This will cause brightness and poor bass. You can buy locking banana plugs which are probably the best route, but nothing wrong with bare wire either so long as you use contact enhancer and/or trim a wee bit off from time to time. You could also change to typical WBT binding posts for a small fee and a little effort if so inclined, or even hard wire you speaker wire directly to the circuit board, which would be the ideal sonically.
Right! Good call, bob55. I wasn't thinking that one may try to put the banana through the speaker wire hole and not the proper hole in the back of the binding post, but reading the post closer this may be the problem!