If you only use a single source i.e. dac only, put the BAM between the dac and the pre-amp. Output from your dac to the input of the BAM, output from the BAM to the input of your pre-amp. You will need one extra pair of interconnects.
If you use multiple source - Your pre has tape in and tape out rca's on the back. Using two pairs of interconnects, take the pre's tape out put into the BAM's input, take the BAM's output and connect it to the pre's tape input.
Great" simple enough,will try right now, will post back later,
After you try between the source, Use the tape loop. The Super Bam was designed for the buffering that the pre provides. Sounds much better IMO. try it, you'll like it!
jim, if the bam is used between a source and tube pre or in its tape loop, the bam will still be wired in front of the tube line output section. so both examples are buffered. some pre amps have additional buffering in their tape loops and in these cases i may actually prefer the bam bewteen the source and pre. best thing is to try it for yourself.
Man, that is the best explanation I have heard. Thanks BRF. Bobby, I think that should be in the manual with pictures - maybe it is on the website. I suspect this is not clear to all users - I now know of at least two:)
Bobby, if someone were stupid enough to experiment with a passive preamp (me), would you expect the BAM to perform best between Source and Passive, or between passive and Amp. There is no issue of amp sensitivity, amp input impedance, or, with short Cardas GR, cable capacitance. I'll still have the Joule LA150 MKII Signature, and the Atma-sphere MP3, so I haven't gone native.
paul, with your cables i would probably prefer between the source and passive. hoping that the gr cables relax the sound a bit. that is where i would start but of course, trying it both ways. let me know on this one please?
does the passive sound a little choked in comparison to the tube pres?
Thanks for the clarification and correction. I agree, listening both ways is the only way to go. Trust you ear.
I lived with two versions of LA-100 as well as LA 150 with my MR Rm9. (loved that amp. Never should have sold it. RAM Labs El34 Siemens were magic in that circuit) I'm curious, What passive could possibly sound better? What could cause you to go native :-)
Jim, if you liked the RM9, you should here the RM9 Special Edition of which Roger only built 16, they are point-to-point, and it uses six  6bq7s for the driver stage. I'm using the Siemens, and it puts out 162 watts into 8ohms and 200 into 4ohms - right, it actually increase power into lower impedance - not your typical tube amp. With all that power and the Merlin's sensitivity, I "light load" with four ohm tap on the amp which reduces power by 20%, but improve linearity, lowers distortion, and increases current on tap, it also runs the tubes alot easier. -Given, that, the RM10MK II at 1/5th the price is no slouch, believe me and it works wonderfully with the Merlins.
As for the passive, I have been vacilating between Bobby's view (he knows his gear) and Roger Modjeski who is a committed proponent of passive (resitor-based at that)to the point I think he believes the debate about active versus passive is silly, but that is what this hobby is all about, different strokes for different folks.
I going to give the Goldpoint a long audition, I would to be happy with something essentially trouble free, off the grid, and consistent. For my taste, the Joule and Atma-sphere preamps are about as good as actives as I have found, the Atma with Atma, and Joule with RM9s and RM10s. It maybe that at the end of the day, passives just won't do it for me, but for $312 I'm willing to listen:)
Thanks. I'm a big fan of Roger Mojeski. He knows his stuff. I have a friend with an Rm10. I agree, it's no slouch for sure.
Please keep us posted on your Goldpoint audition.
paul, the debate between passive and active is not silly. if you use a speaker that is underdamped then you may prefer it. if you use a speaker that is well damped like the vsm/bam combination (without the 2nd and 3rd order harmonic distortion in the bass) then you will prefer an active. it depends on what is in your system. this is not an absolute...and should not be spoken of as such.
I agree. It is all about system building and matching between components, to the point where it come sometimes be a little misleading to even say what a particular tube sounds like absent any information of the circuit it is used in, I know the Roger's EL34 sound is different the CJs EL34 sound, so your left with the question, what does an EL34 sound like, and answer of course is, "it depends".
So I've been listening to the Goldpoint for a few hours, and without comparing at the this point, I would say that for $2,300 to get a Goldpoint ($312) and a Music Reference RM10MKII ($1950) you could pretty darn happy running a pair of VSMs. For $312, the Goldpoint, in the right system is "stupidgood". As good as the Joule or Atmasphere preamps? I don't know yet, but you would be surprised how darn good a $312 preamp can sound.