The Linn should have a "P" clip that fastens to the bottom of the table and takes the strain off the cable. This is just a clip that fits tightly around the cables and screws to the bottom of the table base.
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Yes, I used to have that in place. When ordering this replacement, I could not tell that the wiring is more than double the size of the original. (For a planar 3 that does not move, it would be fine.)
There is no way to tuck this wire into the lead.
A 90 degree turn in it and attaching it to the bottom of the table anywhere, would literally lock the suspension solid and prevent it from moving at all along that 'third.'
I have also tried to relieve the wire from the turntable stand instead, but no matter what I do, it seems to be impossible to prevent it affecting the freedom of movement.
Can you get a larger clip and raise the table? I have done this with my Linn. Many ways of doing this; cheapest is probably using something like the Mapleshade rubber/composite squares; similar but cheaper ones on ebay etc. My new cables are also larger and my tech friend had a larger clip in his seemingly endless parts bin. I ran into a completely different problem; I just got a Riggle VTA adjustor and using the clip pushed the arm up above the board as it is not fastened to the board. I am using a very old Russ Andrews 3 legged Torlite stand so I can let my cables hang straight down; hope this doesn't mess up the suspension too much. I have switched to a Sole sub chassis which is much heavier that the stock one so that should help.
The phonocable should be 'dressed' in such a way that the free movement of the arm + arm board is insured. This is 'the point' of the SP 12 suspension construction. Even with the P clip (Stanwal) you should be careful with 'dressing' (loos) the cable. There is alas no other way then to put the TT on a table such that you can observe the movment from below. I got hernia btw from adjusting those damn springs from below.
We live in a 1890's era train station with a crawlspace. My current setup involves 4 holes in our hardwood floors (you should have seen the Mrs when she realized what I did LOL)...and then 4-12 foot lengths of heavy duty electrical conduit hammered into the earth, so that there is about 4 feet of conduit sticking through the floor. I then connected them together with a simple wooden top shelf. This gives excellent "give" while isolating the table from everything but the trains that run by.
I have a homemade stand, similar to the S.Org. stands many people place their tables on. I have bored a hole in the bottom and the cable from the tonearm now hangs straight down for a good 18 inches and then goes into a "J" shape, where it is zip-tied to the side of the table at the tip of the "J"...this allows for the free-est movement of the suspension. The effect must be minimal, because the bass is back to how it used to be...and then some.
If anyone knows where to buy a plug that will fit this tonearm, please let me know. I am going to make a set of cables for it to remedy this issue. I know things are compromised. Sounds good, but...
Mine is just about like that; does not seem to have much effect on the suspension; especially as the arm is decoupled from the board. I have gotten cables from Sweetcome; they do a good job. I really wouldn't worry too much about it; take the money they would cost and put it toward a Mose Hercules PS or Sole sub chassis if you don't have them; they have transformed my LP12.