Looking for Help with Speaker Jumper Cable Choice

AQ Type 4 is actually a pretty good cable (better than Type 2) and should be a good choice as a jumper. The solid core LGC copper, foamed polyethylene insulation, star-quad geometry, and aggregate 15.5 awg gauge (when connected with one larger and one smaller wire to each polarity), should work just fine for what is essentially a 6-inch speaker cable.

I suggest varying how you have them connected and listening for differences to determine which you prefer. If your main SCs are connected to the LF posts with jumpers connecting to the HF posts, then try it the other way around with the main SCs connected to the HF posts and jumpers to the LF posts. Some folks report improvements by cross-connecting the main SCs with the positive SC connected to the positive HF post and the negative SC connected to the negative LF post and then connecting the jumpers. However you connect them, I doubt you will hear much (if any) improvement when comparing other speaker cable jumpers with the AQ Type 4.

High Fidelity level 2 jumpers replaced my  Transparent Reference xl jumpers.

I went to solder the high frequency leads directly to the low frequency binding posts last night and found the wires are terminated with a female flat spade connector which slides onto the male spade tab that is clamped/nutted to each binding post.  I'm not inclined to cut and solder the leads on.  

High Fidelity jumpers are out of my price range but thank you for the recommendation.  I actually stopped into their shop in TX last March to look at some used speakers they were selling.  They have some nice equipment and are very nice people.  

As Mitch2 suggested, I have already tested the speaker cables connected to the low frequency posts versus the high frequency posts.  It sounds better connected to the low frequency posts.  I haven't tried positive to low and negative to high and vice versa and will give that a shot.  

My goals were twofold with my original post.  
1. upgrade the jumpers
2. obtain jumpers with spade on one end and banana on the other.  

It sounds like I just need to find four decent banana plugs and replace one spade end with a banana on my current jumpers.  

I went to solder the high frequency leads directly to the low frequency binding posts last night and found the wires are terminated with a female flat spade connector which slides onto the male spade tab that is clamped/nutted to each binding post. I'm not inclined to cut and solder the leads on.

So you found out they used the cheapest fastest crappiest connector and want to leave it that way, in order to spend more money on the best wire in order to have it connected to the crappiest sounding connector. Is that right?

Are you sure?

I have yet to see one of these things that couldn't be removed by pushing a nice sharp pick into the crimp and prying it open. With the wire out you solder it and then if you want to keep the crappy connector for the next guy tape it inside there somewhere.

Just realize you're looking at a situation that for absolute dead certain could be improved more with some Total Contact on the connectors than you could ever get from any jumper. 

Once again I am amazed at how cheap parts are used in expensive components. Mods rule.