Linn Sondek Isolation

Hi All,

I recently acquired a mid-80's Sondek. It's being tuned and will be back in my eagerly waiting hands in a few days. I will be putting the table in small wood audio cabinet.

Do I need to set the table on isolation feet or perhaps the entire audio cabinet?


How tall is the cabinet? How solid are the floors?
"In" a small wooden audio cabinet doesn't sound like a good idea for any turntable, nevermind a linn...

A light rigid structure or variations thereof would suit the linn best.
If you can find one (good luck) get what I use. An Audiotech dedicated TT stand (I believe same were made in Italy). These were available in the 1980s and are brilliant.
The table is pretty sturdy. At the bottom are a Jolida 1501 integrated amp and the Jolida CDP as well as 1970's Yamaha receiver. It sits on carpet.

In a quick test, tt will move slightly if I jump up and down near the table, but does not wiggle if I walk near it.
A nice used 'tank' would be an ideal base for any Sondek.
What is a used "tank?"
Do you have an ikea in your area? If yes, buy yourself an ikea lack table.They are ridged four legged tables made of a light weight composite. If not go to HD or Lowe's and purchase heavy duty mounting brackets a thick piece of maple butcher block and wall mount the table. The Linn really is best suited for wall mounting and the ikea lack table is if you just can't.
I have a Torlite stand made expressly for the Linn by Russ Andrews in the 80s. Email me if interested.
A couple of things I have done to set my LP12 up is 1)place it on Aurios, that helps a lot and 2) brace the cabinet against the wall, preferably a stud area. I have a wooden block that is basically wedged between the cabinet and the wall, you actually want the wooden block to be under pressure from the cabinet trying to lean back toward the wall. I made one that is adjustable and I tighten it to make it tight.
While I know it runs counter to the standard advice posted in these threads, Linn recommends placing the TT on a light but rigid table. I can't copy page 14 from the LP12 manual (some sort of Adobe protection) but if you go to the Vinyl Engine you can download the complete manual yourself. Linn argues that a heavy stand will transmit vibrations below the frequency that the Linn suspension can handle. Similarly, suspension feet will interact negatively with the Linn's suspension. If mounted to a wall with brackets, they suggest that the plank on which the Linn sits should rest on the brackets, not be attached to them (i.e. decoupled). In fact, they say that if the table is placed on a massive stand, one should build a lighter decoupling stand (sort of your own miniature light-weight table) to place under it, to decouple it from the mass. I won't argue against the much greater expertise of other members (no sarcasm intended, I'm not involved in the hobby aspects of this to the degree of most posters) but thought you might be interested in Linn's own comments.
Don't listen to Buconero, but Schipo, Stanwal, Theo and Palewin are all correct.
I am trying to remember how far I was able to throw my LP12 after the last time I got up to get a drink (while it was playing a record) and it shook the hell out of my woofer cones? What a nightmare... I had it on a 161 pound turntable stand... yes, yes, yes I have hardwood floors... but still. Solution, Dual 1229 with Grace 747 tonearm. I can jump up and down and the table never moves. Not only that, I once again am enjoying the pace, pitch and power of idler drive, something that the Linn could never ever (even with $8000.00 in the never ending ongoing upgrades, power supplies, bearings, clips, motors etc., etc, etc.) come close too. I agree with the USED TANK idea, it is Brilliant (might want to sell that one to Linn as another upgrade!). Had I thought of it, I might still be using an LP12.
I made my own out of 5/8 plex approx an 1 1/4 inches larger than the LP12 on each side. For the legs, I used 1/4 inch bolts and 2 nuts (one on for the top of the base and one for the bottom). This allows me to adjust each bolt for a perfect level base. Underneth each bolt (leg) I used 1/4 thick artist erasers which I cut 1"x1". I would imagine this would be considered light and somewhat flexible. It works well, and allows you to adjust for level no mater where you locate the table, including wall brackets.
Lightweight and rigid is the way to go - an old Sound Organization table works quite nicely. You might also try the Neuance platform which a lot of Linn folks really like:

Normansizemore, using an LP12 on a very high mass stand is like pouring gas into the fuel tank of a diesel car and then complaining the car wouldn't run properly. It needs to be on a light 'table or, ideally, a wall shelf. I had a Sondek on a wall shelf 75' from a diesel train track and the LP12 NEVER skipped, even as the whole place shook as the train went by.
Headsnappin, and you think my audio dealer would have told me that? NOOOOOOOOOO, he is the one who sold me the behemoth stand to begin with, as well as the LP12 and the $$$ years of upgrades. I honestly never thought of using a lighter stand. You always hear of stories of stands filled with lead shot, and extra ballast so as to be unmovable.

Hey Norman, hopefully you've upgraded your dealer as well as the turntable! It is not your job to think of a lighter table, any Linn dealer would know that. Or did they sell you that used and are not trained by Linn?

My Dealer was a (is still) a Linn dealer. I bought new, and the dealer spent nearly six hours setting the table up the first time. After that, the stand came into play. A few months went by and then the upgrades started. Now I know that the Linn is a good table, because I have heard them dialed in on good systems. Mine, just wasn't meant to be...