here I am answering my own post . . . if I could delete it I would at this point. After posting, I did a little google work and discovered this is a common problem. It seems that the usual problem is capacitors and a number of folks have recapped and were good to go. Also, Lexicon sells a replacement PS that's an upgraded "hospital grade" PS. Installation is similar to installing a hard drive in a PC - just remove the cover, remove 4 screws, disconnect 2 plugs, and reverse the procedure. The price on the new PS is $65, so that's the way I'm going.
Did that fix your problem? I've got an MC-8 doing the same thing.
yes it did. It works as new now.
Where did you buy your power supply for $65? I had a quote for $95 plus shipping $102.
Just called Lexicon parts dept. They are ordering less of these and the new price shipped is $168! Yikes. My display is very dim and the first simple fix is replace the PS. Less compelling at $168.
Are there any other sources for this PS?
For those that replaced the caps, how many do you change out? Is your fix still working?
ouch. I guess I was lucky I bought when I did. I read somewhere that this is a standard PS unit that can be bought elsewhere (ie through standard component sellers like Mouser). I don't know what P/N to look for though. You may want to google . . .
mine died too. just called lexicon. they now want $184 for new psu shipped w/in usa.
i called www.pyramid-audio.com, authorized lexicon repair center, and i ordered a replacement psu from them for $75 shipped in usa.
received and installed the new ps from pyramid audio. worked perfectly. the display is brighter and looks better. interestingly, the unit seems to sound a whole lot better. much more open. tighter bass. and a huge improvement in the high frequency extension. wow! wish i'd done this while ago. totally forgot how good this unit can sound. highly recommended even if you ps hasn't died yet. i failed to figure out how to remove the old ps without bending the side panel. simply bent it back. looks the same. plan to keep mc-1 for a while now!
Bringing up old post cause I now have the same problem, except that my DC-2 also gave off strong burnt electric fumes. Does this still mean the power supply? I have put together several pc's so replacing it seems within my capabilities.
I found the power supply on Mouser.com for $51. It was a newer model than used originally in the MC-1, but the electrical output specs are the same. Works great!
are you using this ps for a MC-1 or a DC-something?
I'm wondering if I can use a new PS I bought from Pyramid to fix my DC-1 in a MC-1 that has a PS thats out.
Or buy this mouser PS for the broken MC-1.
thoughts or info?
Just joined the ranks (again) of a blown PS on a MC1. HINT --- LEAVE THEM ON STANDBY AND NEVER EVER UNPLUG THEM for as long as you can. The cold start is what kills them - but I am sure people have figures this out.
My first issue was repaired in Singapore and I have no idea what they did. Now, 5 yrs later. It has died again.
There is an earlier comment that installing the new PS (from Mouser or Lexicon) is like putting in a new HD. I read that to mean plug and play.
Can anyone confirm that? e.g. no soldering etc.?
Crwilli - you're correct on both counts - my PSU failed when I had a power outage and it came back on. You'll also notice that when first powered on there's a hi frequency squeal that it puts out for probably 20-30 minutes until it warms up I assume. This may be a hint.
Second - replacement is very my like replacing a hard drive except there's a few more screws to deal with. It any even it's a piece of cake unless you're a total DIY klutz.
Yes, and Yes. Two times I have lost the PS on my MC1. Most recently two weeks ago. However, it is an easy repair you can do with a phillips head screwdriver. Go to Mouser.com and buy this. Delivered it cost $49.
40W +5.1 +15 -15 OUT
How does one know if it's the Power Supply or not? My MC-1 suddenly won't power on at all. No lights - nothing. Is this the symptom? Thank you.
If it's not a fuse (check that first), it's very likely the PSU. You can verify with a VOM meter if you know how. I don't recall exactly what the connections are, but you should be able to trace where the PSU power output connects to the main board and measure if you have any voltage there.
Thanks Bdgregory. Since the fuse must be internal, I'm procuring a new Power Supply before tearing apart the whole HT setup to extract the Lexicon. (A chore I surely relish..)
I took Allhaildawg's link and purchased the power supply from Mouser. Put it in the MC-1 and now we're up and running! Thank you Audiogon guys!!!!
I just have to echo the comments above and say that this is still a relevant thread. Severe thunderstorms are frequent here in middle TN and a recent one tripped my line conditioner and shut off my DC-1. It was several hours before I got home and attempted to power it up -- no dice. Taking the advice above, I ordered a new PS from Mouser and I'm back up and running. Installation couldn't be much easier, just a few screws and a couple ribbon connectors. Thanks gents!
Anyone care to say how they removed power supply without bending side panel? I am preparing to do this only as a last resort.
Answered my own question. There are access holes for each screw so really quite easy.
To those looking for the power supply for a MC-1 they have them here also. As the original listing is out of stock and waiting for delivery. With 79 on order.
Anyone know where i can get a lexicon RV8 power supply?
After a power outage, my DC-1 won't start up. I'll check the fuse before pulling the PS. Can someone verify if the MC-1 PS is the same for the DC-1 as found here? http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NFS40-7610Jvirtualkey54020000virtualkey826-NFS40-7610J
In searching a little more, I found that the NFS40-7910 (NFS40-7910J) may be the proper replacement PS for the DC-1. Pretty cheap at $19.99 on eBay -
Can someone confirm that this is the correct PS for the DC-1?
UPDATE. Just received a NFS40-7910 from eBay seller. Couldn't wait to install and test. My DC-1 started right up into diagnostics and seems to be working great again. For $19.99, can't beat it.
My MC-1 also just stopped working - wasn't aware that I should not be subjecting it to cold starts - now I hear a clicking noise when I turn the toggle switch on the back - would it be the power supply or something else entirely? Also, if it is the power supply, does the MC-1 used the same PS as a DC-1? If not, I would really appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.